The SOMM Journal

February / March 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 39 At Casa Lever in Midtown, Wine Direc- tor Carrie Lyn Strong found 2017 to be the year of wine lists with their own identi- ties: "As chefs and restaurants raised their style and regional flags, so did sommeliers," she says. "Wine lists became religious books of somms' originality." The all-Amer - ican wine list at Midtown's Agern and the magnum-focused list at Flatiron's COTE are just two examples of many. For Strong, coordination wasn't the focus; creating a niche and showing enthusiasm was what the year was all about. "People are excited to try new wines—and somms can't wait to pour them!" she adds. LaPratt, meanwhile, saw 2017 as a peri - od of important transition. Though natural wines remained popular, the acceptance of flawed natural wines was replaced with a passion for delicious, well-made wines produced by low-impact methods. "I think young sommeliers and consumers alike are starting to realize that the methods are important, as they have always been, but that the product has to be sound and not spoiled to be enjoyed and celebrated," he explains. LaPratt's observation also carried over to the retail side, where the demand for organic, Biodynamic, and "naturally"- produced wines was higher than ever. Ascencios echoes LaPratt's point on qual - ity: "It needs to be pointed out that not all organic wines are good, so sifting through the offerings is always necessary." She also gives credit to importers and distributors who dedicate themselves to seeking out quality, making her purchasing decisions much quicker and easier. Further downtown at Chambers Street Wines, Partner David Lillie reveals that bottles from the Loire Valley sold more than any other region. He adds that the store's Loire selection is almost entirely organic or Biodynamic wine from smaller estates offering moderate prices. Lillie also found consumers gravitating toward Pied - montese reds, both new and aged; wines from the Jura; and bottles from Georgia and its surrounding areas. Skin-contact wines from France, Italy, Spain, and the U.S. also experienced a rise in popularity. Across the board, both sommeliers and retailers noticed a strong open-minded - ness in their customer's drinking habits. "2017 was a learning year for consum- ers, who began to open their minds and palates to wine, enjoying lesser-known varieties, regions, and styles," says Strong. LaPratt agrees that wine drinkers have become much more open to recommen - dations, especially those exposing them to lesser-known regions. "This really helps us get consumers the very best wine—this is a big win for everyone," she says. "Cus - tomers are open-minded and love trying something new, which matches what we offer overall very well," Ascencios adds. So what can New York wine consum - ers expect this year? According to Ganzer, it's diversity—which he views as a huge win for the client. LaPratt predicts better values as both market competition and consumer knowledge continue to increase. Ascencios agrees in regards to off-premise, foreseeing "excellent wines at great prices." And at Chambers, Lillie predicts a contin - ued interest in Piemonte reds. Value, versatility, and voluminous amounts of Nebbiolo? Count us in, 2018. Wine-adorned walls at Astor Wines & Spirits. Carrie Lyn Strong, Wine Director at Casa Lever. PHOTO COURTESY OF ASTOR WINES & SPIRITS PHOTO COURTESY OF CASA LEVER

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