The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2017

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august 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  93 Dragonette 2014 Chardonnay, Duvarita Vineyard, Santa Barbara County ($60) From the sandy, biodynamic Duvarita Vineyard comes Dragonette's first Chardonnay, although the 2015 is their second vintage. If you can wait, expect an unexpected intense white flower, white peach entry, soft brown spices and pear midpalate and a powerful chalky core. —Jessie Birschbach DRAGONETTE CELLARS J. Wilkes 2013 Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley ($21.99) Ripe yellow apple, pear and pineapple scented with hon- eysuckle give way to wet river rock after a substantial, slight butter-tinged mid-palate. This is a great Chardonnay for those who want something between a buttery and stainless-steel version. This well-made wine hits the sweet spot with grace and finesse. —Jessie Birschbach SeaGlass 2015 Unoaked Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County ($10) If you're looking for something with a bit more body than Pinot Grigio but still just as refreshing, you'll be able to buy a case of this unoaked SeaGlass without blinking. —Jessie Birschbach TRINCHERO FAMILY ESTATES Central Coast Callie Collection 2015 Chardonnay, Central Coast ($13.99) Red apple, candied pineapple and lemon meringue. — Izzy Watson Vineyards Saved from Alamo Fire by Wendy Thies Sell Santa Barbara County's wine industry held its collective breath in early July when hot, dry winds fanned the Alamo Fire, racing through canyons of chaparral and grass toward vineyards in the eastern Santa Maria Valley AVA. By July 7, the ominous plume and active flames were visible from Au Bon Climat and Qupé's winery, located behind Bien Nacido Vineyards. The 28,687-acre wildfire nearly surrounded the 900-acre vineyard from the east, north and west. "All of a sudden, it's raging out of control and you just go into a reactive mode," said Bien Nacido's Vineyard Manager, Chris Hammell. Vineyard crews worked around the clock, bulldozing ruts, grading extensive firebreaks and spraying water, but the most effective strategy was smothering the fire with shovels, just feet from the vines. "I think it's safe to say a lot of damage was prevented," said Michael Brughelli, Bien Nacido's Grape Sales Director. "I'm 100 percent confi- dent that we're not going to see any smoke taint. The smoke went up and away and the ash did too." Also on the fireline, Cambria Estate Vineyard & Winery avoided harm by taking a proactive approach, too: "CAL FIRE and our vineyard team made at least a mile of firebreaks around our estate," stated Denise Shurtleff, Cambria's GM/Winemaker. The winery closed its tasting room for two days during mandatory evacuations. Jackson Family Wines' two Santa Maria properties, Cambria and Byron Winery, opened their water reservoirs for CAL FIRE's use. The scorched hill next to Bien Nacido Vineyard.

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