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Tongue Dancer 2015 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($49) The new Sonoma Coast "pet" project from acclaimed Pinot producer James MacPhail is Tongue Dancer, whimsically illustrated on the bottle by a fox hosting a ballerina on its tongue. You'd think of lightness with this, but no—the extreme nature of the Sonoma Coast won't allow that. The moves—and the opaqueness of the liquid—are evocative of a darker sense. Savory flavors of anise, dried plum, earthy dark chocolate and white pepper. Aged 17 months sur lie in 100% French Oak. 94 Ancient Peaks 2013 Oyster Ridge, Santa Margarita Ranch, Paso Robles, CA ($60) On a singular block on this unique estate in Paso Robles's southernmost sub-AVA, oyster fossils abound, peeking out of the calcium-rich soils. Winemaker Mike Sinor's blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah and 5% Malbec sends up big, broad tannins and a surge of power in his best—and most age-worthy— vintage yet. Black pepper surges on the nose, led by a stream of luxurious blue and black fruit, anise and soil. The finish is a wash of dark chocolate that melts into a chalky finish. 94 Silverado 2013 GEO Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. George Vineyard, Coombsville, Napa Valley ($75) Mt. George, with its volcanic soil, influences this Cab's mineral core. With an addition of 12% Petit Verdot, this vintage also displays mountain brush and a plethora of black fruit. Powdered tannins—a pleasurable mouthfeel—is what I love about Coombsville. The fruit, as concentrated as it is, keeps in pace with dark chocolate, peppered bergamot, graphite and oh so much "geo"—that is, earthiness. 95 Patel 2013 Malbec, Napa Valley ($125) Aged 19 months in new American French oak, Raj Patel has created one of the best Malbecs we have tasted from California. Blackberries, iron-blood and sweet tobacco are held in check aromatically. There's no bitterness; no astringency. It's a big, opaque wine and drinks with a weightlessness: a powerful down pillow. The mid-palate is juicy and spiced with tart, dried plums. Cherries surface on the finish. A lot going on. 96 SPIRITS Nue Grapefruit Vodka, USA ($12) This Double Gold medalist at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition not only carries the perfume of Texas Ruby Red grapefruit, but also scents of pink roses and lanolin. The pretty 70-proof spirit is distilled six times. The palate carries a whisper-soft floral and citrus character on a pinch of sea salt, framing it texturally and setting it apart from the others. 94 SOUTHWEST SPIRITS Bainbridge Heritage Oaked Organic Doug Fir Gin, USA ($37) Distilled on Bainbridge Island in Washington State, this golden-hued gin continues to please nose and palate. The scent of Douglas fir is promi- nent and clean: like smelling pure mountain air. With that, a salinity lingers as do aromas of fresh herbs and lime. The palate is a satin wave of mountain brush, Douglas fir, juniper and spiced lime. 93 Rabbit Hole Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, USA ($49) This four-grain whiskey (70% corn plus three malted grains) is 95 proof and offers a nose of charred tangerine peel, honeyed cedar, butterscotch-mint and wheat toast. The creamy liquid is spiced with black pepper and orange zest. Round and unctuous through to the finish, it warms with flavors of oatmeal, tapioca pudding and a broad wash of apricot nectar. 93 Ron Abuelo 12 Year Gran Reserva Rum, Panama ($35) Peaches, peach blossoms, cedar and sugar cane are scrumptious notes on the nose. Smooth, weighty, sensuous: this 12 year old 80-proofer has flavors that range from antique wood furniture to spiced Mandarin orange and heady, sweet pipe tobacco. It's complex, luxurious and delicate. 94 TOTAL BEVERAGE SOLUTIONS 78 / the tasting panel / june 2017 Publisher's PICKS New Amsterdam Gin No. 485, USA ($14) The exotic floral notes play well with sugared lemon, and an orange-anise-sweet musk aroma, which may be Angelica root. The palate is creamy, with lilac, cucumber, caraway seed, red fruit, vanilla bean and a hint of cherry. The juniper is threaded throughout and makes a neat—if not beautifully com- plex—character. 95 E&J GALLO Fantastic Value!!!!