The Tasting Panel magazine

June 2017

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52  /  the tasting panel  / june 2017 TRAVEL T he Tokaj wine region—which is collectively moving from produc- ing mostly dessert-style Tokaji to a dry style of Furmint—has been one of the world's best wine regions for cen- turies; its gastronomic heritage is also deep-rooted in its culture, so it comes as no surprise that more restaurants offer culinary experiences attuned to the surrounding wine region, like the gourmet Andrássy Rezidencia Eszencia Restaurant, which offers an interna- tional cuisine elegantly fused with traditional local dishes. The excellent wines are chosen from the different vineyards of the Tokaj region. For traditional food with a modern twist, head to Percze Adventure Centre and Restaurant, located in one of the his- toric vineyards of the charming village of Mád. Visitors can go on exciting walking tours in the sloping vineyards, taste the excellent wines from the Szepsy Winery and enjoy local produce including meat from their own pasture and game hunted in the neighboring forests. Initially, the award-winning Gusteau Culinary Experience Workshop in Mád only offered wine dinners, but due to the high quality achieved by the owners and Chef Gábor Horváth, the restaurant has become famous all over the country and abroad. Their mission is to arouse love and respect for top-quality white wines of Tokaj-Hegyalja. The Oroszlános Wine Hotel and Restaurant places a dedicated emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients throughout the year. The renowned kitchen offers excellent food and wine pairings and special regional dishes that combine traditional tastes with modern technologies using more vegetables and colors. There is also a special wine terrace for the summer months. Those who enjoy the bohemian atmo- sphere will enjoy O ˝ s Kaján Restaurant in Tolcsva. The French owner, Leeman Pascal, welcomes the guests for a fine dining and musical experience in an enchanting setting, an elegant former family mansion with a beautiful garden. Built in the mid-19th century, the classical-style building of Sárga Borház Restaurant near Mezo " zombor may well be one of the region's most beautiful countryside houses. You can explore the restaurant's immediate surround- ings with a walk in the vineyards and possibly up to the adjacent Disznóko " Winery for a discovery of how Tokaji wines are made. The Elso ˝ Mádi Borház (literally First Mád Wine House) is the first house in the village, and it is also the first venue in Mád to offer an entire list of wines from different local vineyards. The bistro-style restaurant serves creative food with heart-warming local twists, locally sourced ingredients and excel- lent wines. The Tokaj Coffee-Roast Manufacture in the main street of the town wel- comes visitors with locally roasted specialty coffees. Quality is guaranteed by the dedicated enthusiasm of the passionate owners, Hajni Prácser, who is the barista, and her husband Ronn Wiegand, who possesses two of the world's top wine credentials—Master of Wine and Master Sommelier. Finally, a unique opportunity to take home something special from your trip: the Tokaj-Hegyalja Market takes place every second Sunday of the month and offers handmade products. It is a full-blown food and wine event with live music, guided wine tasting sessions and exhibitions. Tokaj has many faces to show visitors, just like the versatile Dry Furmint, which has as many colors as the region and the local gastronomy itself. Chef Gábor Horváth of the Gusteau Culinary Experience Workshop in Mád. The Birthplace of the Dry Furmint A CULINARY TOUR OF THE TOKAJ WINE REGION As Tokaj wineries shift to producing dry Furmint, the restau- rants of the region have embraced this change, creating dishes to pair with this wine. by Izzy Watson / photos by Ferenc Dancsecs

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