Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/780573
{ SOMMjournal.com } 85 Vineyards and used as a source not just by the Wentes and The Steven Kent Winery but also by much newer, tinier, artisanal producers such Nottingham Cellars/Vasco Urbano Wine Company, Wood Family Vineyards and a half-dozen more. The following day we also saw Mirassou, his son Aiden and his Assistant Winemaker Craig Ploof sorting and destemming Ghielmetti-grown Clone 30 Cabernet Sauvignon at the Wente winery, which hap - pens to be next door to the Steven Kent tasting room. Cavallo Point Wine Director Jamie Harding remarks, "There seems to be a symbiotic relationship between all the producers in Livermore Valley, big and small." Alluding to the supportive camara - derie between the region's established pro- ducers and newbies, Mirassou proffered, "Ov er the past ten years we have looked to the influx of young winemakers, like [Vasco Urbano's] Collin Cranor to help propel the appellation from a quality standpoint." Out in the 64-acre Ghielmetti Estate Vineyard—the easternmost, coolest- climate corner of the appellation, by dint of higher-elevation slopes (up to 1,000 feet) and wind velocity increased by its immedi - ate proximity to the Altamont Pass—we tasted several wines that bodaciously fly in the face of Livermore Valley's stock image as a region of one-dimensional, fruit-driven wines. A sampling: Speck (by Vasco Urbano) 2015 Grenache Rosé, Ghielmetti Vineyard Tasting lean and taut with a theme of tongue curling Meyer lemon and slaking minerality, as opposed to the soft strawberry fruitiness typical of Grenache-based rosés from most parts of the world. Wood FamilyVineyards2014 Grenache A red wine screaming with cracked pep- percorn spice and almost gardenia-like floral notes; medium-full body punctuated by notable acid balance. Lola (by The Steven Kent Winery) 2015 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Ghielmetti Vineyard A 60%/40% blend also dominated by lemon and white flower perfumes plus animale-like murmurings, sharp yet silky in its sleek, steely palate-feel. Following our Ghielmetti walk, we gath- ered together in The Steven Kent Winery's Wine Club room to taste components and bottlings of Mirassou's pièce de resistance, the red Bordeaux–inspired Lineage. "Our original impulse was to produce just one wine from the Ghielmetti estate," said Mirassou, "but we found that when the parts are put together you end up with pieces that make beautiful wines standing on their own." Mirassou describes Lineage, first bottled from the 2007 vintage, as an "exotic beast," alluding to its distinctive expression of Livermore Valley terroir. "In our vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon furnishes the skel - etal structure, Cabernet Franc a nervous system, Merlot the flesh and Petit Verdot and Malbec the feathers, adding idiosyn - crasies to the aromas and structure. As the Cabernet Franc has matured, it's retained its persistent acidity, while becoming sexier, a little fleshier—so we've steadily increased its percentage over the years." Following those remarks, Mirassou had us blind-taste 2014 barrel samples of separate varietal components, not so much so that we could guess what was what (although our sommeliers loved the challenge) but to appreciate the distinctions of the vineyard and appellation rather than varietal expec - tation. In a comparison of final blends, we exper ienced the evolution of Lineage and Ghielmetti Estate Vineyard's maturation: Steven Kent 2012 Lineage 72% Cabernet Sauvignon; deep enormity of black fruit with licorice and scrub; meaty, dense, exquisite polish. Steven Kent 2013 Lineage Just 55% Cabernet Sauvignon with 30% Cabernet Franc; classic cedar notes added to licorice and sculpted meatiness. Steven Kent 2014 Lineage Down to 50% Cabernet Sauvignon with 35% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot; has flesh and enormous feel of previous vintages, yet tightened with sharper lines and more fragrant, intriguing personality. The Steven Kent Winery's Assistant Winemaker Craig Ploof noses Lineage, the winery's flagship Bordeaux-style blend. (left) Lola is a steely Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend from The Steven Kent Winery. Inspired by Bordeaux: Collin Cranor of Nottingham Cellars/Vasco Urbano, owner/wineker Dane Stark of Page Mill Winery and owner/winemaker John Kinney of Occasio Winery.