Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/780573
84 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 "This is also why the pioneers chose Livermore Valley. At first, they planted in deep, gravelly soils closer to the arroyos [dry creek beds and washes], whereas over the past 15 to 25 years we have been planting more vineyards on hillsides, characterized by gravelly clay loams. We also source from vineyards as far as 15 miles to the east, at closer to 1,000- foot elevations. Because the valley runs in an east-west direction, with fairly high mountains on both sides, the differences in elevation and wind actually make our east side vineyards, closer to where it narrows at the Altamont Pass, some of our cooler climate sites, even though they're further from the ocean. "Still, all of our sites contribute to the quality of our wines. Take Chardonnay, for instance, which my great-grandfather Ernest Wente pioneered. Ernest was in the first graduating class at U.C. Davis, in 1911. The next year he persuaded my great-great-grandfather Carl to import cuttings of Chardonnay from the grape vine nursery at University of Montpellier, and during the following 30, 40 years he was the one who made all the selections, cultivat - ing the vines with the most favorable traits, which eventually found their way into vineyards planted by Louis Martini, Stony Hill, Hanzell . . . it's here that California Chardonnay got started." The 1936 Wente Brothers "Pinot Chardonnay," in fact, was the first varietal bottling of the grape in the U.S. Wente went on to explain how he is now able to take full advantage of the tremendous diversity of vineyard sites and wealth of original clonal material (unparalleled in California) still at their disposal. Says Wente: "We can pick from among our 500 acres of Chardonnay planted in the Livermore Valley to achieve optimal complexity. We'll pick Chardonnay at 22° Brix, which gives us leaner, lemony qualities of the grape. At 23° Brix we'll get more pear/apple qual - ities; at 24°, more stone fruit or apricot and at 25° more tropical or pineapple characteristics. Then, depending upon whether we ferment in stainless steel or in barrels, new French oak or neutral barrels, wild yeast or inoculated fermen - tations and even more variables, we're able to produce Chardonnays here in Livermore Valley that are as interesting as anywhere else in the world." Following our sunset pilgrimage in Sachau Vineyard, our sommeliers were treated to a dinner on the front lawn of Karl Wente's home, looking out at Louis Mel Vineyard—followed by a living-room jam session put on by Wente (playing lead guitar) and two of the eight members of his band, Wolf Hamlin & the Front Porch Drifters. During our farm-to-fork dinner, Wente backed up his talk with a pouring of Wente Vineyards 2015 Morning Fog Chardonnay; retailing at just $15 yet loaded with all the svelte, curvaceous lines, toasty complexity (50/50 barrel/steel fermentation) and varietal intensity of Chardonnays more than twice the price. With dinner, we were also treated to a seriously sturdy yet rounded Murrieta's Well 2015 Merlot (like boysenberry laced with anise and chewing tobacco). We were also impressed by the laudably herbaceous, restrained, meaty textured Wente Vineyards 2013 Charles Wetmore Cabernet Sauvignon, largely sourced from plantings in the gravelly loam between the nearby Arroyo del Valle and Arroyo Mocho and originating from clonal material obtained by Wetmore from the Médoc (particularly Château Margaux) during the 1880s. First thing in the morning of our first full day, Steven Kent Mirassou picked up where Karl D. Wente left off on the narrative of how Livermore Valley has gotten its groove back. Mirassou speaks from the perspective of a sixth-genera - tion California winegrower, establishing his Steven Kent Winery in 1996 and his groundbreaking Ghielmetti Estate Vineyard shortly thereafter. Mirassou told us, "One of the inter - esting things about Livermore Valley is the misinterpretation that this is a 'hot' wine region, when in fact we are very much coastal, falling in the San Francisco Bay appellation. Closeness to water gives us massive diurnal shifts that help us retain ideal grape acidity. "You're aware of our history—the region was once home to at least 60 wineries, producing extremely high- quality wines up until Prohibition. We may have lost the marketing battle in the years after, but lately we have been build - ing back up to pre-Prohibition strength. I'll tell you why: We have the soils, the right climate, but maybe more important, we have the know-how and success of previous generations to build on and a collegial culture of sharing that comes with smaller, tight-knit communities." That culture was driven home after Mirassou's talk, when our sommeliers walked through his Ghielmetti plant - ing, farmed for Mirassou by Wente Dinner at Karl Wente's home. Karl Wente on lead guitar with members of his band, Wolf Hamlin & the Front Porch Drifters, provide entertainment. Day 2 Exploration of East Livermore Valley and California "Mother" Vines Sixth-generation winegrower Steven Kent Mirrasou.