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86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 After this, we walked a few feet into Steven Kent Winer y's public tasting room to sample other Livermore Valley vint - ners' Bordeaux-inspired bottlings. Among the highlights: Nottingham Cellars 2013 Casa de Vinas Micro-Lot Reserve Cabernet Franc A collaboration of the valley's reputedly most meticulous grower, Casa de Vinas' Julio Covarrubias, and a rising star winemaker, Collin Cranor; flowery with anise, raspberry/ cherry and organic notes; lean, crinkly, persistently high-toned. Page Mill 2014 Malbec Strikingly unique, nostril-tingling notes of blackcurrant, pepper-specked chocolate and lavender- laced potpourri; refreshingly spare, zesty feel. Occasio 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon If you're tired of simple fruitiness in California Cabernet Sauvignon, you'll love this wine's restrained, sinewy, herby/scrubby iteration of the varietal. While exposure to contemporary style brands such as Steven Kent and Nottingham/Vasco Urbano might give a visitor the impression that the Livermore Valley style of red wines is largely low- key, our visit to our next stop—McGrail Vineyards & Winery, located towards the eastern end of the valley—dispelled that notion. In fact, it stomps that idea into the ground: Over the past five, six years the McGrails have built a lofty upstart's repu - tation for powerful, flashy, world-beating Cabernet Sauvignon reminiscent of the heady days of Napa Valley in the late '60s and early '70s, from a vineyard planted only in 1999 (naturally, on the advice of Phil Wente and Steven K. Mirassou). There's "no big secret," explained McGrail's winemaker Mark Clarin while walking us through the estate vines. "It's mostly location and farming strategy. We limit irrigation, for one, which keeps berry size on the small side, and we end up with all the intensity we need while never picking higher than 25° Brix"—making an unintended contrast with another famous California region (beginning with N), where optimal Cabernet Sauvignon ripeness rarely comes at sugars lower than 26° or 27°. The winery's current top-of-the-line, the McGrail 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, is rich, muscular and luxuri - ously textured with high-toned, liqueur-like concentration but without jarring the pal- ate. To illustrate how they build complexity into a compact package, General Manager Heather McGrail and Clarin treated us to an edifying blind tasting of 2014 bar- rel components demonstrating the sen- sory qualities of American vs. French vs. Hungarian oak. This was followed by a tast- ing of finished bottlings from estate-grown fruit, sold only at the winery, reflecting the three barrel types: McGrail 2013 James Vincent Cabernet Sauvignon (100% French oak) Vanillin sweetness, sturdy tannin and nutmeg/clove spices of this oak brightening herby notes in the varietal profile, while fleshing out the concentrated feel of McGrail-grown fruit. McGrail 2013 Patriot Cabernet Sauvignon (100% American oak) The even more pungent vanillin sweetness of this oak pushes the varietal herbaceousness front and center, resulting in more front-loaded, cedary sensations on the palate. Winemaker Mark Clarin and General Manager Heather McGrail conduct a tasting in the McGrail Vineyards cellar. Three estate offerings from McGrail Vineyards, reflecting three barrel types. A big truck—and big wines—at McGrail. Over the past several years the McGrails have built a lofty upstart's reputation for powerful, flashy, world- beating Cabernet Sauvignon.