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PAIRING From our modern American perspective this seems a question- able rationale, seeing as Gamay was considerably easier to grow and vinify than Pinot and therefore (one would think) earn a sou from. Yet whatever the dukes' true motives, their move turned out rather well for the banished grape and for the people of Beaujolais, where Gamay gained dominance and has thrived for centuries, and where the varied soils help produce an array of outstanding wines that many Americans are just now discovering lo these centuries later. Among them, Beaujolais-Villages provides the com- plexities and drinkability that delight the serious wine drinker as well as the casual quaffer. And, as creative chefs are now discovering, it provides an exceptional complement to their inventive new versions of America's national sandwich, the hamburger. According to Yann Bourigault, the North American Export Director for Les Vins Georges Duboeuf, France's largest producer of Beaujolais wines, this marriage of burgers and Beaujolais-Villages makes perfect sense: Light and fruity, Beaujolais- Villages' brightness and acidity cuts through fatty foods such as the beef in the tastiest burgers; it's one of a handful of reds that is delicious served chilled; and it's a highly accessible wine, even for those who aren't neces- sarily red wine enthusiasts. While a substantial enough red to pull equal weight in a pairing with red meat, Yann also recommends Beaujolais- Villages as the perfect "transitional" wine for those who generally prefer whites, thanks to its soft tannins and clean, fresh fruit. Yann Bourigault, the North American Export Director for Les Vins Georges Duboeuf. Creating a Change of Perception at Lido di Manhattan Just as Beaujolais-Villages and burgers are a natural pairing, restaurateur Lisa Hemmat of Lido di Manhattan in Manhattan Beach, CA, is a natural to cham- pion that pairing. Lisa offers an extensive wine list that includes 30 wines by the glass, and she hosts weekly themed tastings to share her enthusiasm for her favorite new wine discoveries. She's recently started offering specially priced and promoted food/wine pairings on her menu to encourage her clientele not only to try new wines but to appreciate how a whole wine- plus-food experience exceeds the sum of its parts. And the fi rst pairing she's Lisa Hemmat at Lido di Manhattan is an ambassa- dor for burgers and Beaujolais pairing. She invites her diners to discover what she calls "possibly the best pairing you will ever taste!" 122 / the tasting panel / august 2012 offering? Burgers and Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages. Lisa's trying to change the perception many hold that hamburgers just go with beer, a misconception she feels leads diners to miss out on something special. The pairing of Lido's Angus burger and Beaujolais-Villages may be just the tool with which she'll achieve that convincing; Lido's generous burgers are topped with a melted slice of earthy Manchego cheese and a slather of caramelized onions, which after tasting make the Beaujolais's fruity fl avors sing. The burger is nicely salted, too, another fi ne complement to the Beaujolais's lively acidity. �—Joel Blum Lido's Angus burger (paired with Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages) is topped with a melted slice of earthy Manchego cheese and a slather of caramelized onions. PHOTO: ERICA BARTEL PHOTO: ERICA BARTEL PHOTO: ERICA BARTEL