Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/76623
La Fenêtre Minerality shines in winemaker Josh Klapper's clas- sic Santa Maria–style Chardonnay. Waxy, earthy with tight lines and a hint of shiitake mushroom, the fruit aspect balances out thanks to a charming acidity. Williams Selyem La Fenêtre 2009 Chardonnay. Williams Selyem 2010 Hawk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma (in the southwestern-most corner of the Russian River Valley appellation) is as rich as Rodeo Drive, with a 16-month 100% French oak barrel program. Honey and pears, with a jigger of lemon drop and slate aromas, maintain its texture and flavor. "Take the use of oak in Chardonnay as a song," says wine- maker Bob Cabral, "You can play The Star Spangled Banner traditionally or play it on a Fender guitar, Jimi Hendrix style: it's recognizable either way." For Cabral it's about the right soils, trellising, care and love. "I use oak and ML like a chef uses salt and pepper." Falcone Falcone 2010 Chardonnay, Santa Maria spotlights that cutting-edge minerality like smooth glass on the palate. John Falcone is also the new GM and Director of Winemaking at Gainey Vineyards in Santa Ynez. Byron Vineyards Byron 2010 Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley released last month: mineral- rich with a platter of mango, guava and spicy orange zest. Winemaker Jonathan Nagy has a light touch, but it's all there, not covered in oak. Helen and John Falcone. Byron Winemaker Jonathan Nagy on the winery estate in Santa Maria. 108 / the tasting panel / august 2012