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the lighter, fruitier Babeasca Neagra ("grandmother's grape"), a local version of Pinot Noir. The Monser line, from producer Senator, repre- sents the best of what Romania has to offer. quality and control. Some producers, such as Senator, are going the extra mile and farming organically. The winery, started in 1991, has 800 hectares under vine amongst three properties in Eastern Romania. In 2010, 250 hectares were certified organic. Along with the old-vine properties, "this has high potential for the future," says Ciprian Neacsu, whose father and uncle founded the winery. Senator's Monser portfolio is perhaps the best representation of what Romania has to offer, devoted to Feteasca Neagra, Babeasca Neagra, Cadarca, Babeasca Gri, Zghihara, Feteasca Regala, Feteasca Alba, Sarba, Tamaioasa Romaneasca ("Romanian- incensed maiden") and Busuioaca de Bohotin. These wines are a mouthful to say—and taste. Mass Appeal, Uncompromising Quality In the Banat region near Transylvania, Cramele Recas has modernized not only its wines but also its outlook. On our visit last year, owners Philip Cox, a pony-tailed Brit, and his wife, Elvira, a native Romanian, weren't nostalgic about native grapes: They're making a name for themselves while putting Romania on the map. They have an Australian winemaker and a worldly view, marketing five brands in the U.S. as gateway wines 106 / the tasting panel / august 2012 The imposing and modern M1 is a wine from Murfatlar. Among the whites: Tamaioasa Romaneasca, a Muscatel-style wine; the ancient Feteasca Alba ("white maiden"), which can be dry or semi-dry; and Feteasca Regala, a dry and acidic crossing between Grasa (usually a botrytised wine, a cousin, perhaps, of Tokaj) and Feteasca Alba. Production of quality wines is split evenly between red and white, with white having the slight edge. Some 3,154 hectoliters were produced in 2010—a decreasing trend over the past decade to pump up via major distribution channels such as Sam's Club. "We need international-style wines that we can sell abroad," said Cox. "We offer indigenous varieties, but you can't force people. We make what people want and offer a wide variety," Cox said on our visit last year. And they're not afraid to be flip: they've marketed a wine called "Pinot Envy" and a Vampire wine, a nod to their gloomy heritage. But don't laugh: despite the kitschy branding, it's an award-winning winery. One winery not yielding to mass appeal is Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea, whose owners have defined their own standards. The motto from the old estate, an 1884 royal compound, still stands: "Nothing without passion." While the meticu- lously refurbished Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea has historically only produced two labels, they are now introducing distinc- tive wines under the new Blue Train, Minima Moralia and Principesa Margarita labels. The red-oriented Coroanei Segarcea portfolio is meticulously crafted by Cornelia Anghel, a former cardiologist, who owns the estate with her husband, Mihai. The winery has won scores of awards in prestigious competitions, Mihai Anghel Jr. of Domeniul Coroanei Segarcea represented his family's meticulously crafted wines at the tasting. and Mihai Anghel says he's not willing to underprice his wines just to get them on the market. They grow Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but also Romanian varieties, including the obscure Tamaioasa Roza—the only one of its kind in the world. "The way we will find success is in wines that have their own identity," says Cornelia. With wines appealing to both popular tastes and discovery-driven connoisseurs, Romania is a country to watch. www.selectwinesofromania.com Romania at a Glance ◗ Member of the European Union since 2007 ◗ Sixth-largest wine producer in the EU, with 195,600 ha under vine ◗ Wines designated PDO (100% grapes of origin) and PGI (85% grapes of origin) ◗ Seven demarcated wine regions: Transylvania, Moldova, Crisana & Maramures, Muntenia & Oltenia, Banat, Southern Sands & Danube Terraces and Dobrogea ◗ White wine production: 1,687,000 hl (53.4%) ◗ Red wine production: 1,467,000 hl (46.6%) Romania lies on the "golden parallel" with Piemonte, Burgundy, Bordeaux and other important European wine regions.