The Tasting Panel magazine

JULY 2012

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THE MESSAGE O A Taste for Charity n Sunday, June 3, the Montage Resort in Laguna Beach played host to its second annual Taste of the Nation event, a fête that is part of a nationwide series of gatherings put on by the non-profi t organization Share Our Strength in order to help eradicate childhood hunger. The combination of fulfi lling charity and breathtaking scenery proved to be quite the mighty A Table Setting aron Forman, owner and self-proclaimed Chief Bottle Washer at modern-American Table 6 in Denver, Colorado, realizes that not all wine list entries can be unique. "I put in some domestic softballs like Rombauer Chardonnay and Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon and mark them down so that less knowledgeable guests can feel safe picking a good wine. Of course, I then feel a responsibility to fi ll out the list with other, more unusual choices such as Scarpetta's Tocai Friulano from northern Italy and John Duval's Entity Red Blend from the Barossa Valley in Australia. It's all good." Table 6 has been a fi xture of fun/fi ne dining in Denver since 2004, and the cuisine—which features perhaps the best homemade tater tots in the free world—is driven by Head Chef and honey badger Scott Parker. The place is always packed, which requires Forman and Parker to rely on a passionate staff that includes Sous Chef Aaron Forman, owner of Denver's Table 6. (Lil' General) Carrie Shores, Assistant GM (Hurricane) Lee Ballz, General Manager Mike Young, Bean Counter Dan Fergusen and Events Coordinator LeeLynn Nearing. Service is top-notch but not obtrusive, and the goal is to be all over the table in a way that seems like they're not there at all. —B. W. Jennifer Carroll of Concrete Blonde; Lee Smith of Montage Laguna Beach; Craig Strong of Studio at Montage Laguna Beach; Michael Voltaggio of ink.; Rob Wilson of Montage, Laguna Beach; Alan Wong of Alan Wong's; Floyd Cardoz of North End Grill; Suzanne Goin of Lucques; and William Bradley of Addison at the Grand Del Mar. conduit to beckon a host of well respected culinary names, according to Teresa Siriani, Chair, Taste of the Nation Laguna Beach. "We are grateful for the support of Montage for our Laguna Beach event," she says, "and they make our chef recruiting very easy as they treat each chef like royalty." Indeed, there were plenty of epicurean kings and queens on hand to don fi gura- tive crowns. The lineup of talent included heavyweights like Michael Voltaggio from ink. in Los Angeles, Suzanne Goin from L.A.s' Lucques, and Alan Wong from his eponymous Honolulu venue. The collection of chefs also put their hands to additional work, signing bottles from such notable wineries as Silver Oak, ZD, Justin, and Duckhorn for a special auction that also included an "instant wine cellar" featuring 77 prestigious labels. —Rich Manning 20 / the tasting panel / july 2012 Rocky Mountain Classic Italian A ndrea Frizzi, chef-owner of Il Posto in Denver, Colorado, knows that great neighborhood restaurants please regular customers. "Knowing my regulars allows me to keep them interested without excluding newcomers. Knowledge is always power." Frizzi extends this philosophy to all aspects of his shop, including food menu, beverage list and service. "My brand focuses on regional cuisine, and obviously my restaurant has to refl ect my interests. Luckily my regulars love classic Italian dishes built on great, fresh ingredients, obscure grapes and culinary knowledge delivered by friendly, helpful staff." His all-star crew of 19 dedicated souls includes Sous Chefs Lucas Chandler, Jeff Webb and Mario Pacheco, as well as Pastry Chef Natalia Spampinato, Sommelier Max Koepke and Dining Room Supervisors Mercedes Johnson and Kelly Waldo. Andrea Frizzi, chef/owner of Denver's Il Posto. Each meal starts with a small glass of Lambrusco, which Frizzi refers to as his "engine-starter." Wines at $40 to 60 are the heart of Il Posto's all-Italian list, but customers can reach up or down as desired. "Even in Denver, I can't keep Taurasi in stock. I am so passionate about food, wine and history, which is why we also sell the hell out of Marzemino, the favorite wine of both Mozart and my father." —Ben Weinberg PHOTO: KEVIN MOLONEY PHOTO: KEVIN MOLONEY

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