Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/688647
82 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 According to data supplied by the British Columbia Wine Institute, in 1990 there were just 17 British Columbia wineries, although at the time grapes like Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon (the most widely planted varieties in B.C. today) were virtually non-existent. The number of wineries "exploded" to 66 by 2001, and today there are over 270, and counting. David Kristiansen, the lead sommelier of Pebble Beach Resorts, calls British Columbia a "paradox." Says Kristiansen, "We spent three days at basically 1,000 to 2,000 feet above sea level, in vineyards clustered along lakes surrounded by snow-covered mountains, all part of a desert range averaging less than 14 inches of rain a year. What was amazing was the diversity—silt and gravel soils pro - ducing crisp clean whites and delicate reds in the north, and towards the south, sandy, sagebrush crowned hills producing ripe yet elegant reds. Kelvin DeBoeur, CMS, representing John Howie Steak in Bellevue, WA, says, "The best way to explain B.C. to peers is to say it is a desert—a very northerly desert. What's intriguing is that within the 120-mile stretch of Okanagan Valley you find nearly all possible environments for grapes—ideal for Riesling and Pinot Noir, and also Viognier, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon . . . all with very crisp, food friendly acidity, and very expressive terroir complexities." Chevis Scott, sommelier at San Francisco's Nostra, describes the "commonality" in B.C. whites, reds, pinks as well as sparklers as "high acid and lingering spice." Jienna Basaldu, CS, CSW, of Sacramento's Sutter Club expounds: "British Columbia was beautiful and serene— I thought I was in Switzerland on Lake Geneva. It also seems to be a gathering place for extremely talented winemakers and viti - culturists not just from Canada, but also from Australia, New Zealand, France, Italy and South America. Everything seemed so new, so raw (in a good way) and untouched . . . there's nothing like it!" Sparkling Wine and an "Across-the-Street-to-Fork" Reception Sparkling wine is a natural fit in a region known for cold-climate viticulture, so this was the dominant theme at our opening reception in the Bonfire Restaurant, located in The Cove Lakeside Resort along the western shores of Okanagan Lake. Jay Drysdale, owner/winemaker of Bella Wines, christened the occasion with a pair of méthode champenoise Bella Bruts: one from Chardonnay, and the other a beautifully translucent pink rosé made completely from Gamay Noir. Said Drysdale, "We are the only British Columbia winery specializing 100% in bubbly. It makes sense to me because sparkling wines are what I love best, and you always do best what you love most. It's also because we get a natural acidity in B.C. grapes that is unlike anywhere else in the world, producing gentle yet vivid, elegant styles of sparkling wine." Kristiansen praises the Bella Sparkling Gamay Rosé in particular as "an intriguing mix of citrus, cherries, rhubarb and blood orange, complimented with savory sage and rosemary herbal notes." We also tasted a steely dry, finely beaded, deeply yeasted Tantalus Vineyards Riesling Natural Brut (zero dosage) crafted from this East Kelowna/Okanagan Valley estate's oldest vines (Riesling planted in 1978— among the first Vitis vinifera in B.C.). Then there was the Summerhill Pyramid Winery 1998 Cipes Ariel Premier Cuvée—the current commercial release from this winery known for its organic/biodynamic winegrowing as well as for At the sparkling wine reception at Bonfire Restaurant at Cove Lakeside Resort, somms Rob Renteria, Diego Garcia, Chevis Scott, Britt Hastings toast to BC SOMM Camp. CAMP [ ] [ ]