The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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106 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 { fine spirits } Sailing on Tradition KIRK AND SWEENEY CAPTURES THE EXQUISITE ESSENCE OF DOMINICAN RUM by David Gadd DURING THE EARLY YEARS OF PROHIBITION, A wooden schooner named the Kirk and Sweeney plied the high seas bringing rum from the Caribbean to the northeastern United States. Before entering U.S. waters along what became known as the "Rum Line," the larger vessel would drop anchor while smaller, more nimble boats would take on the precious liquid cargo and smuggle it ashore, hoping to outrun the U.S. Coast Guard. Eventually the Kirk and Sweeney was seized and went into duty for the Coast Guard until its retirement in the 1940s. In honor of this distinguished ship and its Caribbean rum–laced heritage, 3 Badge Mixology—the spirits division of 3 Badge Beverage Corporation, based in Sonoma, CA—began producing Kirk and Sweeney Rum. Made in Santiago de los Caballeros, Dominican Republic, and launched in late 2012, the brand was one of the first spirits offerings for the company (originally called 35 Maple Street) founded by August Sebastiani, scion of the well-known Sonoma wine family. Starting with traditionally harvested sugarcane, the 12- 18- and 23-year expressions of Kirk and Sweeney are aged in American oak barrels and each is bottled at 40 ABV. "Ours is not primarily intended as a blending rum," notes Sebastiani. "Sure, you can do all sorts of fun stuff with it in a blender or shaker, but first and foremost, we want people to see us like a brandy—something to be swirled and savored." Swirling Kirk and Sweeney 12 Year Old (SRP $40) will reveal deep mahogany hues and a nose redolent of honey with sugarcane undertones and hints of toasted, oaky vanilla over rich caramel and dried fruits. Savoring unleashes the rum's nectar-like qualities on a weighted body, indicative of a rum that's serious in character but not overbearing. Ripe, sweet vanilla flavors evolve on the luxurious finish. Intriguing aromas of sherry and molasses waft off the elegant Kirk and Sweeney 18 Year Old (SRP $49), followed by haunting vanilla with hints of caramel, raisins and dried fruit. Full-bodied on the palate, the rum's extended aging and expert blending come to life with the first taste, revealing seductive vanilla flavors,

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