The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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10 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2016 SELECTING THE WINES FOR A WINE LIST IS perhaps the most time-consuming and arduous job that a sommelier has to face. Carefully tasting through hundreds of samples, crafting a selection that is balanced—by type, by source, by price, by compatibility with the menu—is a daunting task. After selecting the list, then there is the need to maintain the list. Tasting samples slows a bit but not that much. And there's also staff training, inventory management and cellar maintenance. All of this can make for long days, especially if, in addition, you are working the floor throughout the dinner hour. With this heavy load of responsibility, it's under - standable that another very important task is often overlooked. I'm talking about how the wine list is presented. I'm not talking about a wine list with a velvet cover and a gold tassel. I'm talking about how the list is orga - nized for presentation to the customer. Do you do it the traditional way—sparkling wines, whites then reds—or use one of many variations. You can separate the wines by country of origin or appella- tion. You can list them by ascending price. You can group them according to their variety. You can list them by style (i.e., "light, aromatic whites," "rich, spicy reds," etc.). Or you can use a combination of these systems. All these are valid choices. The point is, pay atten - tion to this aspect of marketing your list. Which form of presentation you choose should be determined by your careful assessment of your typical customer. There are types who wouldn't understand any listing other than the traditional style and others whose ordering would be stimulated by a more creative approach. After the hard work required to build a list, take the time to decide what will be the most effective way to present it to your customers. —Anthony Dias Blue { editor's notebook } Bringing Order to Your List PAUL PONTALLIER In 1975, Paul Pontallier attended the Grignon National Agronomic Institute of Paris, before specializing in Wine Growing and Oenology at Montpellier. In 1978, he returned to Bordeauxhis home townto study at the prestigious Talence Institute of Oenology. He prepared a thesis on the aging conditions of red wine in barrels and obtained his doctorate in 1981. His mentor was celebrated enologist Emile Peynaud. A few months later, Paul Pontallier left for Chile to complete his military service. He taught enology for eighteen months at the Catholic University of Santiago. It was on his return to France, in 1983, that he joined Corinne Mentzelopoulos's team at Château Margaux. He was appointed Managing Director in 1990 when Philippe Barré retired. MANUEL LOZANO Manuel Lozano, Head Winemaker and Chief Enologist of Bodega Lustau Sherries and Brandies, died on April 26, 2016 after suffering from complications following a recent medical procedure. He was 61. Recognized among the world's great winemakers, Lozano's passion, commitment, expertise and success leave an unforgettable legacy. Since joining Bodega Lustau in 1999, he took pride in continuing the traditions of his predecessors to dedicate his whole life to Sherry wines. Lozano is survived by his wife and three sons. ETIENNE HUGEL Aged 57, Etienne Hugel had joined the family busi- ness in 1982 and was in charge of promoting Famille Hugel wines abroad. Now exported to more than 100 countries around the world, Famille Hugel wines are today proud to be represented by a great number of Alsace wine lovers who were able to share many pleasurable and convivial moments with Etienne. "A visionary and a hard worker, my son Etienne travelled the world relentlessly, showing unparalleled people skills and infectious enthusi- asm," said André Hugel. "Throughout his life he was able to communicate his passion, his professionalism and his personal values to all those with whom he worked." Hugel is survived by his father, André Hugel, his wife Kaoru and his two children, Charlotte and Jean-Frédéric. DENIS MALBEC Winemaker Denis Malbec died in a tragic automobile acci- dent in Yountville on April 16. He was 46. Denis was born at Château Latour, the renowned Bordeaux First Growth house in Pauillac, where both his father and grandfather worked. In 1993, Denis followed in their footsteps, starting as a cellar worker at Château Latour and eventually becoming Enologist and Cellar Master, crafting the vintages from 1994 to 1999. After moving to California, he and his wife, May-Britt, founded their own label, Notre Vin. The couple also served as winemakers at Blankiet Estate in Yountville and Sodaro Estate Winery in Napa Valley, and were founding winemakers in 2008 at Captûre Wines. The couple also had projects in Lake County, including the Aliénor label. IN MEMORIAM PHOTO COURTESY OF CHATEAU MARGAUX PHOTO: KURT INGE PHOTO COURTESY OF SODARO ESTATE WINERY PHOTO COURTESY OF BODEGA LUSTAU Paul Pontallier, Managing Director of Château Margaux, died on March 28 at the age of 59 after a battle with cancer. Famille Hugel announced the sudden death of Etienne Hugel on Saturday, April 9.

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