Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/688647
{ SOMMjournal.com } 59 1892 was like a Ch. Clinet 1970; 1893's spice and lanolin vigour impressed; 1894 showed Mediterranean warmth, while the splendid 1895 gave a hint of modernity and 1896 was all of a piece, a fine wine (1888 absent). 1897–1909 Phylloxera struck this decade, the "golden age" ending in 1990, 1906 being the first from grafted vines. 1897 was superb, again a 1970 Pomerol but Trotanoy; 1898 warm but slightly "chunky" but 1899 right back with spice and vigour and 1900 naturally ripe, a hint of leather. 1903, 1904 and 1905 were drying out, while 1907 showed fresh - ness from young vines; 1908 rather light (7.4 ABV!) and 1909 still just holding its own (1901, 1902, 1906 absent). 1910–1920 A much better flight as the grafted vines aged. 1910's lightly earthy fruit and 1911's Pomerol-y warmth led to 1912's incred- ible clarity and depth at 103 years old and 1914's ripe middle fruit; 1915 was lightish and fragrant, 1916 more vigourous; 1917 showed Rioja's natural sweetness; 1918 well-balanced depth, 1919 fragrant but grippy, while 1920 divided the room, new American oak being evident for the first time (1913 absent). 1921–1931 A superb decade, the wines having totally regained their natural warmth, depth and vigour. 1921 lanolin smoothness was trumped by the extraordinary colour, spice and richness of 1922; 1923 was robust Rioja; 1924 finer, full of vineyard vigour; 1925 a cross between them; 1926 elegant, Tempranillo and American oak evident; 1927 seductively fresh (1982 Pomerol), 1928 a little warmer and deeper, 1929 richly chocolate-y with fine fruit, but 1930 green and leafy; 1931 still youthful, fine and dry. 1932–1945 World depression and war turned this into a variable 14 years. 1932 showed youthful oaky vigour ; 1933 lacked ripeness, 1934 (Bordeaux's only good vintage of the '30s) fine and harmonious, 1935 slightly forced with edgy tannins; 1936 good vanilla/Rioja flavours, 1937 attractive in a lighter style, 1938 rich, elegant, lots of length; 1939 just still there, 1942 nice natural energy, 1943 rather green, 1944 back to robust clar - ity and 1945 superb depth and elegance (1940 and 1941 absent). 1946–1955 Like Bordeaux, marvellous wines from the late '40s. 1946 was drying out but 1947 showed fine richness from a hot vintage; 1948 even better, more spice and elegance; 1949 young autumnal fruits; 1950 and 1951 both with spicy smoothness; 1952 good, more solid than elegant, 1953 really lovely with caressing texture, 1954 robust yet floral, 1955 lighter, still some freshness. 1956–1964 Quite an even flight, ending in glory. 1956 warm Rioja fruit still there, 1957 more concentrated and tighter, 1958 lighter with textured charm, 1959 rich with velvety complexity, 1960 minty-creamy and just as good, 1961 good but a bit lean, 1962 good rather chunky depth, 1963 very smooth, nutty Rioja, finally 1964 youngest of the flight, oak, richness and tannins blended together, explosive yet controlled. For me, the five finest wines were 1874, 1897, 1922, 1945 and 1964. Baron de Chirel Named after an illustrious family member, the Baron de Chirel, the first Vino de Alta Expresión in Rioja from the three-hectare Las Tapias vineyard and produced only in the best years, was launched in 1991 with the 1986. The blend is never less than 60% Tempranillo, never more than 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, except for the spe - cial Frank Gehry bottling, created in 2001 in honour of the great architect, which is 100% Tempranillo, the second bottling being not until the 2012. We tasted the 19 vintages produced so far. Flight One: 1986–2001 The 1986 still shows a fine colour and fruit, but finishes a little green; 1991 was fresher with lifted spice and Riscal elegance, totally mature now; 1992 had a warmer, earthier fruit, the richness of Rioja blending Cabernet's firmness, still with lots in reserve; the early and large harvest in 1994 showed a nice sweet middle palate and firm tannins, while 1995 was richer in a robust St-Emilion style; 1996, high in Cabernet, didn't have the richness and is ready now, while 1999, the crop much reduced by frost, showed youthful concentration and energy for a long future, 2000 being fresher and more elegant, a beautifully made wine, with 2001 completing the trio of excellent vintages with a fragrant and floral 100% Tempranillo, a fine blend of elegance and power. Flight Two: 2002–2012 From now the tone was ripe, youthful fruit with good depth, very good oak aging with French oak replacing American from 2006. 2002 showed good spice, smoothness, rich- ness and length; 2003, one of the hottest years ever in Rioja, was a bit broad and chunky, a contrast to 2004's slight lack of ripeness, neither of them great Baron de Chirels, but 2005 was superb, very modern almost international in style, so smooth it can be drunk now but with a fine future. 2006 didn't show well, being a little jammy and "cooked," but the form came back in 2008 with a rich, chocolate-y fruit and new oak and potential complexity; 2010 was simply superb, with all the hallmarks of a great vintage: perfect ripeness with depth, elegance, purity and harmony, producing a quote from the table that "Tempranillo might not always show the greatest virtues, but where it beats all other varietals is in balance. 2011 was already quite open with a good decade in front of it, while the 2012, dense purple red impressed already with its fragrant yet firm fruit, all purity and vineyard depth, an exuberantly fine Riscal with which to end the tasting. Marqués de Riscal and Baron de Chirel are imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.