The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  57 believer in the perfect wine for cheeseburg- ers, hot dogs or "Alabama-style" barbecued chicken sandwiches, and this Zinfandel is it. The Joel Gott 2013 "Alakai" California Grenache ($18) addresses everyone's increasing need for lighter reds beyond Pinot Noir. Blending darker varietal char - acter from Sonoma's Knights Valley with the floral notes possible in cooler-climate sandy sites in Monterey, Gott has crafted a red with the classic cake-spiced perfume cherry/raspberry aroma of Grenache, manifested in a soft, inviting feel and, as he puts it, with that irresistible "strawberry thing and peppery finish." On the other side of the scale, the unbe - lievably well priced Joel Gott 2013 "815" California Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) is strongly weighted with concentrated blackcurrant, enhanced by mocha spices, a foresty minerality and outwardly rounded, supple feel garnered from diverse fruit sources—Napa Valley's Howell Mountain, complemented by Sonoma, Lake County, Lodi, Monterey County and Paso Robles. Despite the typical varietal weightiness, says Gott, "this wine has a sweet entry which lets it go with almost any food, from grilled cheese to bacon cheeseburgers or, better yet, a 'Western bacon blue ring' [the latter a hit at Gott's Roadside burger with blue cheese, red onions and barbecue sauce]." NEW NORTHWEST PASSAGES With all the success and the full range of grapes and terroirs available in California, why would the Gott team venture into Oregon and Washington? According to Gott, "It's where all the cool kids were going, so naturally we had to check it out!" Gott was particularly drawn to Willamette Valley because "the area has great soil and a marine influence not unlike parts of California, giving the area unusually long, cool growing seasons." Hence, the Joel Gott 2015 Oregon Pinot Gris (about $16), its varietal purity rendered from 100% stainless steel fermentation and finishing, giving white flower–scented, silken-fine, airy fresh notes, watering the palate with sensations of fleshy white peach and a lush Meyer lemon crispness. Even more so, it is with the Joel Gott 2013 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (about $24) that the Gott team really shows off their winemaking chops. Here you find the classic varietal elegance buoyed by oodles of fruit and prickling acidity. Gott really puts it best: "Great juicy flavors, soft tannin elegance, and great black cherry, blueberry, cranberry and vanilla spice typical of Willamette Valley." It is in Washington's diversity of regions, however, where the Gotts may find the greatest fulfillment of their instinctive urge to innovate within their power-to-the-peo - ple pricing. Says Gott, "Watching what both Charles Bieler and Charles Smith were doing there inspired us to go to Columbia Valley." Look out for the summer of 2016, when Joel Gott Wines comes out with their first Grüner Veltliner and Gewürztraminer, sourced from the wind-swept Columbia Gorge AVA. Meanwhile, you would be hard pressed to find a more compelling buy than the ultra- premium level Joel Gott 2014 Columbia Valley Red Wine ($16), 55% Merlot with 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah and 6% Malbec, sourced primarily from the prestigious Red Mountain, Walla Walla Valley and Horse Heaven Hills appellations. A concentrated nose of blackberry and cassis is polished by sweetly restrained oak spice, typical of the Gott team's subtle touch, dense and velvety on the palate. As with the Joel Gott California Cabernet Sauvignon, Gott opts for American rather French oak to soften the Bordeaux grapes' tannin and create a generous yet pliant, opulent feel—in the Columbia Valley Red, coming across with a layered richness. Gott's sense of soil has hit pay dirt, indeed! A selection of Joel Gott wines, sourced from "wherever you find great grapes."

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