The SOMM Journal

June / July 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com } 41 The lone Sherry of the evening was Don Zoilo Manzanilla, from Bodegas Williams & Humbert. This family- owned company owns more than 1,200 acres of vineyards in Spain, and claims to have one of the largest wine cellars in Europe. For this offering, 100% Palomino grapes were vinified and aged in oak casks for five years using the traditional solera method. The nose has powerful notes of apple and yeast, which come to life on the palate alongside bright, lifted aromas of toasted almond. The finish never seems to end, making this the ultimate final taste of the night. Alsatian icon Famille Hugel had two textbook Rieslings in the game: the 2014 Classic Riesling and the 2009 Riesling Jubilee Hugel. This venerable winery was founded in 1639, and 13 generations of Hugels have participated in the business. About half of their 30-hect - are Riquewihr vineyard is classified as Sporen or Schoenenbourg Grand Cru, but the Hugels refuse to use "Grand Cru" on any of their labels, as a protest against the political and commercial interests they believe motivated the 1974 codification of Grand Crus status for areas outside tradi - tionally recognized Grand Cru vineyards. The 2014 Classic is indeed a classic young Alsatian Riesling, dry, elegant, taut and aromatic. Viviaciously spicy acidity and graceful minerality anchor aromas of green apple, ginger, lemongrass and peach. This is the Famille Hugel's signature wine, and for good reason. Japanese crab and cucumber sunomono gave it no trouble at all. Jubilee Hugel is the family's proprietary designation for a dry Grand Cru bottling. The 2009 Riesling was absolutely majestic, with a floral nose and mineral elegance that conveys its Schoenenbourg Grand Cru status loud and clear. Deep, expressive, balanced, and ripe, this wine finishes at a languorous pace, allowing extra time to savor it . . . with everything. Family-owned Jordan Winery brought three vintages of their elegant Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to the party, and all were worthy of note. The 2014 Russian River Valley Chardonnay was crisp and structured with bright lemon acidity, grace - ful oak influence, soft leesy texture and exceptional balance. Fresh pear and citrus notes progress to delicate white stone fruit aromas on the finish. Jordan's This wine's grace and texture made it ideal for the Hawaiian ahi poke, but also delicious with everything at the Denmark table. The Jordan 2012 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon similarly benefits from Jordan's stylistic restraint, showing bright blackberries, cherries and refreshing tart red fruits that open and evolve slowly in the mouth. The Brazilian 36-day dry-aged churrasco with coffee-barbecue sauce matched the Jordan Cab's bright acid and tender texture perfectly, while the feijoada benefited from its tart red fruit character and tannins. Lisa Mattson, Director of Marketing & Communications at Jordan Vineyard & Winery, also poured a magnum of Jordan's 2003 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, an herbaceous and seductive wine layered with baked red fruits, black tea, spices, gravelly minerality and delicate tobacco aromas. At 13 years old, this wine is magnificent and still fresh, elevating the rich Hawaiian kalua pig quesadilla to new levels of deliciousness. Shimizu-No-Mai Pure Dusk Junmai Daiginjo Saké is made by the historic Takashimizu Brewery in Akita, Japan, which was originally founded in 1656. The mas - ter saké brewer uses the locally grown Akita Sake Komachi heirloom variety of rice for this saké, milled to 45% (5% more than required for daiginjo status), and fresh spring water sourced from the convergence of three mountain streams. You find that natural minerality on the nose and palate, rounded out with ripe pear, orange peel and melon aromas. Soft, delicate, and medium bodied, this sake was a treat on its own as well as with the various Japanese-inflected dishes. A Kalua pig quesadilla from CIA Chef Tom Wong. Lisa Mattson, Director of Marketing & Communications at Jordan Vineyard & Winery.

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