Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/65124
FROM THE EDITOR Pour Excuses t his year's San Francisco World Spirits Competition drew 1,215 entries, the most ever. The blue-ribbon panel of experienced professional spirits judges lav- ished praise and Gold Medals on scotches, bourbons, tequilas and all manner of distillate (see the results on page 85). All agreed that the quality of the entries was the best they had ever seen—with one notable exception: fl avored vodkas. There were 82 fl avored vodkas entered into the competition (not including 52 gins which are, in reality, also fl avored vodkas). I don't want to debate the use and purpose of fl avored vodkas. Let's just assume that fl avored vodkas are an important and useful category (although there are many who would take issue with that statement). My problem with the category as a whole is how few of them accomplish the simple task set out for them: to produce a spirit that actually tastes like the item that is mentioned on the label, be it lemon, or blueberry, or caramel, or chocolate. It is diffi cult to understand how reputable companies can put their name on liquids that taste of the laboratory not the garden. In the lemon or citron category, for example, eight products were submitted and none qualifi ed for anything better than a Bronze Medal. How strange. The fl avor of lemon is just not that complex. San Pellegrino makes a lovely lemon soda that showcases the pure, fresh fl avor of lemons. Why can't someone replicate that in a vodka? Most of the lemon/citron vodkas tasted artifi cial and were devoid of the crisp, acidic qualities that are typical of lemon. Actually, why bother using these products when a fl avorless vodka with a squeeze of fresh lemon would be a much better solution, and probably less expensive? A few products did rise to the top and prove that success in this category is possible. The top winner was a stunningly authentic and bracing cucumber vodka made in the Netherlands by Effen. Nosing this vodka reveals the lovely perfume of freshly cut cucumbers, which transfers unadulterated to the balanced and precise taste. If this category wants to be taken seriously, producers need to replicate this sterling effort and do more than just approximate fl avors. Too often these fl avored vodkas seem to be channeling fur- niture polish or bathroom disinfectant. If you're making fl avored vodka, please, try to do better. 4 / the tasting panel / may 2012 PHOTO: CATHY TWIGG-BLUMEL