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THE MESSAGE A French Retreat (without the Airfare) L os Angeles is never hurting for a new restaurant. But an unfussy, cozy establishment that serves delicious fare and has a unique wine selection? Now that deserves to be noticed. Recently-opened Hollywood bistro Papilles, "tastebuds" in French, is inspired by the French bistronomique movement, and Executive Chef Tim Carey collaborates with Wine Director Santos Uy to offer authentic upscale French cuisine free from the hassles that often plague fi ne dining. With a weekly-changing menu, Papilles offers three prix-fi xe courses with two options for each course. My dining experience included a tasty broc- coli velouté with delicate forest mushrooms for the starter. The main of roast top sirloin of lamb with potatoes, cippollini, rapini and lamb jus provided an amazing medley of fl avors and textures. As for beverages, Papilles—gasp!—has no wine list. Instead, bottles are displayed gallery-style along the charming exposed brick walls, allowing guests to be more involved in the wine selection. While Papilles may be new on the L.A. dining scene, its combination of deli- cious cuisine, rustic charm and modern innovation promises to make it a lasting success. Just be sure to make a reservation—this cozy French haven won't remain a secret for long! —Megan Wieczorek Executive Chef Tim Carey works his magic in the rich-hued open kitchen. Hollywood's Tropical Competition W hen I was asked to judge the USBG/Don Q Bartending Competition in mid-April, I was excited to enjoy a mini, if imaginary, getaway to the tropics of Puerto Rico. While reggae music played, USBG members snacked on fried plantains and empanadas and ten of Los Angeles's top bartend- ers went head-to-head for a chance to win a trip to this month's Manhattan Cocktail Classic. Hosted by hip bowling alley/bar The Spare Room, there was a genuine air of camaraderie in the room although the stakes were high: The winner of the fi nals at MCC would win a trip to Puerto Rico plus $1,000, and $5,000 donated to their local USBG chapter. The L.A. stop was only one of many along the way: This Spring, Don Q put every chapter of the USBG to the test, challenging local 'tenders to craft a Don Q-based cocktail that would channel the spirit of the Puerto Rico, home of the iconic rum. The L.A. winner, Edwin Cruz of Tlapazola Grill, won with his balanced and easy-drinking La Borinqueña, a creamy, well- textured quaff. Cruz was thrilled, nearly jumping up and down when his cocktail was announced as the winner, and excited to take on the next round. —Rachel Burkons 20 / the tasting panel / may 2012 PHOTO: EVI T'BOLT