Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/537687
july 2015 / the tasting panel / 69 When it opened its doors to Sonoma County in 2004, Santa Rosa–based Flavor Bistro had a singular vision for its food and wine program: to celebrate Sonoma's bounty by showcasing local wines in an affordable way, and pairing them with locally-produced, organic foods. Ten years later, little has changed. Flavor Bistro still buys local and organic, and searches its backyard wineries for unique offerings not found farther afield, in many instances buying directly to help maintain low list prices for its customers. "We operate on much lower margins than a lot of restaurants," says Greg Thompson, Flavor Bistro's General Manager, "and the biggest movers on our list are in the $40–60 per bottle range, with some bottles as low as $26–30," he adds. Flavor Bistro also pours 60 wines by the glass, so with that in mind, Thompson looks for wines that offer good value along with great quality. "St. Francis is a perfect fit for our criteria," says Thompson, "and we currently pour the Sonoma Chardonnay, Merlot and Old Vines Zinfandel, with the Zin being the top seller of the three." An SF Staple: Scoma's, San Francisco When Brothers Al & Joe Scoma took over a six-seat coffee shop on the wharf in San Francisco in 1965, little did they know that their tiny endeavor would 50 years later be one of the top-grossing restaurants in the nation with seating for over 300 guests, annual sales of over $15 million, and an address which now reads Al Scoma Way. Serving cuisine based on traditional Italian and Sicilian seafood-based recipes, Scoma's built a reputation among the locals and tourists alike for having not just top-notch food, but great local wine offerings too. "Being within spitting distance of California's wine country, selling our home state's wines has always been a big part of our program," says Nick McGreevy, Scoma's General Manager. "And in my 19 years, I can't remember St. Francis not being on our list." 2015 has seen a major renovation at Scoma's, such as increasing the bar area and installing a keg/ tap system for its by-the-glass program, a nod, in part, to Scoma's move towards more sustainable practices, yet with obvious economic benefits as well. "Kegs give us consistent pour freshness, virtually eliminating waste," says McGreevy, who adds, "Our whole by-the-glass list will be served out of kegs, with St. Francis as the house Chardonnay." NY Steak and CA Reds: Smith & Wollensky, New York City It may not be New York City's oldest, but Smith & Wollensky opened on a midtown corner in 1977 by restaurant impresario Allen Stillman, who was arguably responsible for revitalizing the entire genre of the American steakhouse. Stillman, whose first restaurant venture was T.G.I. Fridays, created Smith & Wollensky, (the names were picked at random out of the phone book), with one thing in mind: to elevate the steakhouse experience to the highest level by offering not just delicious food, but an unparalleled wine and beverage experience. Many wine list and din- ing awards later, Smith & Wollensky is still at the top of its game. "The New York steak experi- ence is a perfect fit for the bold profiles of California reds," says Christopher Sweet, Smith & Wollensky's Head Sommelier, who oversees both sides of the restaurant: the formal dining room and the more relaxed Wollensky's Grill concept. "St. Francis' approach- able wines are a great fit for us in both places," he adds, "and with the Reserve Tier and its $100 price point coming in at the low end of our $100–120 sweet spot, it's a perfect transitional wine, offering both good value in our dining room, and a step up in our Grill." Left to right: St. Francis Winemaker Katie Madigan, St. Francis Vineyard Manager Jake Terrell, Flavor Bistro General Manager Greg Thompson and St. Francis Winemaker Chris Louton at Flavor Bistro in Santa Rosa, CA. Christopher Sweet, Head Sommelier at New York City's Smith & Wollensky. PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN Celebrating Sonoma's Bounty: Flavor Bistro, Santa Rosa, CA PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG