Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/46939
If you, too, wish to boldly go where the restless wine lovers fi nd the most satisfaction, we suggest starting with the following examples of what Lodi may eventually become best known for: alternative-style wines that change the way we think about, and appreciate, wines in general. Drinking WHITES Alta Mesa Cellars 2009 Verdelho, Lodi ($14) A Lodi native of Portuguese descent, Alta Mesa vigneron Ron Silva discovered this clone of Verdelho in the Azores island of Pico, growing between ancient walls of black volcanic stone. A revelatory dry white with peach skin and lime perfumes, hinting at scented garden herbs like pineapple sage and lemon verbena; tasting lightly tart, silky smooth, stony in the feel. Try grilled oysters with vinegary mignon- ette, ceviche or feta salads in lemon vinaigrettes. lodiwine.com Uvaggio 2009 Vermentino, Lodi ($14) Uvaggio winemaker Jim Moore calls Vermentino the "thinking man's Pinot Grigio"—which it is, and refreshingly more: stony (as opposed to overtly fruity) qualities laced with citrus and dried herb; lavender-like notes. The potpourri sensations kiss the palate with lemony crispness in a light, lithe, buoyant body. uvaggio.com Jeff Runquist 2009 "R" Souzão, Silvaspoons Vineyards, Riaza 2010 Terra Alta Vineyard Albariño, Clements Hills-Lodi ($19) Albariño has carved a signifi cant niche in the varietal wine market, and Lodi has been feeding it with the largest plantings of this grape outside its home in Rías Baixas. An orgasm of minerals and fruit in a bone-dry, medium-bodied package; scents of wildfl owers, honey, grapefruit, pineapple, even green mango. Think lemon chicken, saffroned shellfi sh paella or white clam linguine. riazawines.com Lodi ($24) Very few in the world have worked with Souzão, even in its native Portugal, where it is usually used for sweet fortifi ed wines. Luscious, dry red table wines like this make you wonder why. A black and Bing cherry explosion in soft, bright, almost levitating medium body; compelling, like an Elvis on black velvet. Match with braised meats (beef, lamb or pork) in thick, rich broths. jeffrunquistwines.com november 201 1 / the tasting panel / 95 Verdelho grapes from Lodi. Outsıde the Zin Odisea 2010 Cochon Grenache Blanc, Clements Hills-Lodi ($25) A subtley crafted white exuding as much a naturalness of fruit as pure, unadulterated intensity: billowing fragrances of white peach, apricot and tropical fl owers, with honeyed, melony, quince-like fl avors, layered in silky, swirling, crisp and creamy sensations. cochonwines.com Loredona 2010 Viognier, Lodi ($11) Grown on gravelly vineyards in the Lodi foothills, tangerine and honeysuckle prove that Viognier can be one of the world's most aromatic wines. Winemaker Alicia Ysais uses a gentle process in her 100% stainless steel production of this lithe beauty. dfvwines.com REDS Bokisch 2008 Garnacha, Terra Alta Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi ($18) Vinifi ed from a clonal selection of Grenache from Spain's Rioja Baja: very fi ne, sensual, strawberry liqueur-like fruit—permissive in the nose, demure on the palate, fi nishing with dangerous whiffs of tobacco. Think tomato-laced shellfi sh stews like cioppino, or duck in chocolate mole. bokischvineyards.com PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO PHOTO: RANDY CAPAROSO