The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2011

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BEER Barman Jon Edwards pulls taps at Rooster Fish in Watkins Glen. Something's Brewing in T he Finger Lakes region is primar- ily known for its Rieslings. But a number of entrepreneurial spirits in Central New York have been taking advantage of pure lake water and a proper climate for hops growing to revive local beermaking, with results ing Crooked Rooster Pub in historic Watkins Glen (best known for its racetrack), Thayer installed vats right next to the tables, and unlike many "brewpubs," they aren't just for show. Thayer started with Dog Tooth Pale Ale and has expanded to a broad range of brews, some seasonal, and all reflect- ing a passionate attention to detail. At the base of Seneca Lake, Rooster Fish is just the tip of the iceberg (although it may also be the pinnacle). In fact, the recent Fifth Annual Ithaca Brew Fest displayed the wares of nearly twenty upstate microbreweries. Ithaca itself hosts at least five brew- pubs including the noteworthy Ithaca Beer and Bandwagon Brewpub. Local Chinook and Cascade hops are a frequent ingredient. North of Watkins Glen you'll spot Bellwether's owner/cidermaster Bill Barton with his local ciders. that could change the area's reputation. "I like the adventure of trying out new things," says Rooster Fish Brewing owner and Brewmaster Doug Thayer. Inside his quaintly unassum- 112 / the tasting panel / november 201 1 Two Goats, a simple operation where Jon Rodgers brews three seasonal vari- eties just to serve his own picturesque lakeside bar. A taste of their Oatmeal Stout (one of three seasonal varieties), full of spice, cocoa and coffee notes, makes you consider moving closer. Other breweries are, logically, connected to some of the region's more popular wineries. Lodi's Wagner Valley Brewing, for example, is located New York THE STATE'S FINGER LAKES REGION DOES MORE THAN WINE story and photos by E. C. Gladstone behind the Wagner Vineyards gift shop, but that's no indication of its quality or breadth. Locals line up like dehydrated soldiers for two-dollar tastings of Brewmaster Dean Jones's unpasturized six standards and two rotating seasonals. Likewise, Geneva's War Horse Brewing is the sibling of Three Brothers Winery but the "soon to be legendary" spot is using that to its advantage, making a Riesling Ale that combines pre-fermented wine-grape juice with wheat beer made from three malts and two hops. In fact, individualism may be the clearest connection between these brewers, particularly if you include Bellwether Cidery. Owner/cidermas- ter Bill Barton's operation may be the definitive labor of love. Using fruit sourced only within a 30-mile radius, Barton admits Bellwether's "a bit like a wine company, a bit like a brewery." Barton makes as many as ten ciders seasonally, varied in style and source fruit. In particular, the earthy but bright King Baldwin (using Tompkins King and Baldwin apples) and tart rosé-reminiscent Cherry Street are, like many of the above brews, worthy of wider awareness.

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