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Vineyards overlook the Mediterranean in Banyuls. Vineyards by the Sea The view of the sea from Collioure is exhilarating in a way that only the Mediterranean can be. Here, Christine Campadeiu and Vincent Cantié's Domaine La Tour Vieille, perched on a steep, vine-covered slope, was "dis- covered" by legendary Berkeley-based importer Kermit Lynch. The domaine produces red, white and rosé Collioure dry wines as well as superb Banyuls VDNs—all from estate vineyards. Among many standouts were the supple, sexy 2008 Collioure La Pinède (75% Grenache, 25% Carignan) and the intense, raisiny 2008 Banyuls Rimages Mise Tardive, bottled after three years in a large oak tun. At Les Clos de Paulliles, the largest privately-owned estate in Coullioure, Managing Director Tom Warner, an expat Englishman, shows us around the seaside estate, whose crescent- shaped bay experienced its own mysterious Mediterranean tsunami a few years ago. This is the second property of the Dauré family, owners of Château de Jau in Roussillon's Agly Valley, makers of the quaffable, value-driven Jaja de Jau line. Les Clos de Paulilles Collioure Blanc is an expressive, barrel-fermented Grenache Blanc–Grenache Gris blend, while the complex Banyuls Cap Béar, entirely from Grenache Noir, spends 18 months in glass demijohns and eight months in oak barriques. Pasternak Wine Imports handles the wines in the U.S. Further down the coast in Banyuls, where Spain is just around the next bend, the energetic Romuald Peronne, of Domaine St. Sébastien, is in the How Sweet It Is: Vin Doux Naturel Although contemporary winemakers are focusing on modern-style dry wines, Roussillon's most celebrated vinous product is still vin doux naturel—a sweet wine made by arresting the fermentation process by the addition of grape alcohol. This process, known as mutage, was discovered in the late 13th century by Arnaud de Villeneuve, a professor at the University of Montpellier (still one of the world's premier enology schools). With the exception of Muscat and reds that are bottled early to be drunk young, vins doux naturels—or VDN wines—are aged in wooden vats, bar- rels or glass demijohns for between 30 months and 20 years, sometimes even longer, acquiring their lovely, complex bouquet. The demijohns (called bonbonnes in French)are stored in the open air, exposing the wine to varia- tions in temperature and sunlight that accelerate the effects of ageing. Serve VDNs from the Banyuls and Muscat de Rivesaltes appellations in contemplative moments as vins de méditation, or with foods such as the Roussillon's celebrated foie gras. throes of crush. Bins of ripe Grenache are arriving as visitors crowd the winery's res- taurant and shop. Amid the mayhem, we taste cuvées, named for the four elements. The earthy 2010 Inspiration Minérale is an old-vine Collioure Blanc that speaks of the soil, while the 2010 Inspiration Marine is a spicy, dry Collioure Rouge made mainly from Mourvèdre. The wines are imported by Quigley Fine Wines in San Diego. Not far away is Domaine Madeloc, a historic Banyuls operation owned since 2002 by celebrated Condrieu producer Pierre Gaillard. Typical of many Roussillon wineries, Madeloc has the look of a 19th-century cellar, with few amenities. Gaillard handles the vinifica- tion himself. The wines (imported by Fruit of the Vines and others) range from rather short, rustically-styled reds with hot tannins, to lovely offerings such as the 2010 Asphodèles Banyuls Blanc (80% Grenache Gris/20% Muscat), with soft, ripe stone-fruit flavors and nice vanillins. Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Cap Béar. For more information on the fascinating wines of the Roussillon, visit the CIVR website at vinsduroussillon.com. A selection of VDNs at Domaine Singla. november 201 1 / the tasting panel / 85 PHOTO: DAVID GADD PHOTO: DAVID GADD