Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/41419
ROAD TRIP Scheid VineyardS The Scheid family has been farming grapes along a 70-mile spread of the Salinas Valley for over 40 years. Covering 4,500 acres and ten estates in four distinct growing regions, the fruit has sold to a wide scope of wineries—from small boutique producers to widely distributed brands. In 1989, their own Scheid Vineyard label was launched with a minute production of just 150 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon. Proving that they can showcase the best of their fruit, the pro- gression continued; in the past decade, the array has blossomed to 30 varietals. Scheid created a custom-crush facility within their larger winery, with a capacity of 30,000 tons (or what would amount to two million cases). It's large-scale luxury winemaking for a variety of clients, but Director of Winemaking Dave Nagengast crafts a specific style—and much smaller production—just for the Scheid brand. And we love the Stelvin closures. For 20 years, Scheid—the ninth largest wine grower in the U.S.—has sold direct to consumer, but starting this fall, they are engaging with the three tier system. On the bocce court at Scheid Vineyards are (left to right) Scott Scheid, President & CEO/Scheid Vineyards; Director of Winemaking Dave Nagengast; and John Holder, National Sales Manager/Scheid Vineyards. Four Boys Vineyard represents the four small Pinot parcels on the SLH Pessagno estate (Pessagno has four sons, but this name is actually just a coincidence). For the 2008 vintage, the Boys are satin-textured hunks edged with cinnamon and soft, distressed leather. The raspberry and cherry fruit shows itself after a moment and on the long, lingering finish: oatmeal cookies with a touch of vanilla. SRP $55. Steve Pessagno and his son Anthony in the tasting room. Although Anthony is a web designer, he also runs the sales end of the business as well as the wine club, distribu- tor relations and tasting room. PeSSagno One of the factors in the Santa Lucia Highlands appellation's growing recognition is the celebrity status of some of its vineyard sites. Names such as Garys' (for Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni), Sleepy Hollow, Pisoni, Rosella's and Pessagno are renowned, and their owners are just some of the growers whose viticultural standards lend respect and quality to many labels from wineries in the area and even outside Monterey County. Steve Pessagno owns up to his "quiet competitiveness." He is among the top growers in the AVA but nods to other producers who are making a name for themselves. "What do they say? A rising tide lifts all boats." He is proud of the region. "We are much more powerful as a group," he states, referencing the local vintners' associa- tion, Wine Artisans of the Santa Lucia Highlands. "We meet often—every month except during harvest—to promote the area and exchange ideas." While he lets us know that the upcoming '11 harvest will be the result of an "erratic year," Pessagno still has faith. Based on his consistent style, which he asserts is "big, but fruit-driven," Pessagno is a self-proclaimed show-me kind of guy (his first degree was in mechanical engineering and his second in enology) who works hard to create luxurious wines with lots of character. A favorite project for Pessagno is his California port production. In the 1980s, he imported cuttings from Portugal that included Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz and planted the vines in Hames Valley, at the southern end of Monterey County. The 2005 Hames Valley Vineyard Pessagno Port (SRP $36) is lush, sweet and heady with fragrant blue flowers and dried stone fruit notes. 76 / the tasting panel / september 201 1