Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/41419
SAKÉ Tradition T he domestic saké market is hot and robust thanks to America's craving for "the new." (Ironic, considering that saké is thousands of years old.) It's also growing because of the innova- tion from saké companies—both the Japanese and domestic producers, including those with breweries on America's burgeoning saké coast of Oregon and California. Once cloaked in mystery, saké is now seen as both exotic and hip. Although this country doesn't have saké vending machines (popular in Japan), we now have saké on tap. And to demonstrate the strength of the Texas saké market, Japan's 374-year-old Gekkeikan Saké partnered with Axiom Sushi in Dallas to equip bartenders with the state's first cold saké tap system. Saké now flows as efficiently as beer and just as cold. Axiom's head bartender Joseph Samonte tells me there's nothing weird about pulling a tap for cold saké instead of beer. "And it came just in time for the summer heat." Pouring saké chilled makes it versatile for saké sangria, Sakétinis, and saké bombs. As far as the carbonation aspect, Samonte says, "It bubbles up at first, then it goes down. It's a smooth saké experience." Gekkeikan Saké Brand Ambassador Jarrod Doak says having a saké tap next to beer taps breaks down some of the mystery behind saké and puts it in a familiar setting. "Most of Gekkeikan's emphasis right now is on education and access," Doak says. "This cold tap system is revolutionary. We're excited about seeing more of them roll out across the country." Similar systems, with Gekkeikan-provided tap handles, have been installed in Houston and more are coming to Dallas. And while most people would never think of Texas as sake country, Doak says that in the first quarter of this year, Texas was among the top three Gekkeikan markets in the U.S. (For more Texas saké news, see "A Lone Star Life," page 112.) Carbonated tap systems are literally the front lines of modern saké, but behind the scenes Japanese 110 / the tasting panel / september 201 1 to Taps SAKÉ TAKES ON TEXAS by Anthony Head producers are wrestling to reconcile the past with the future. "In Japan there are the traditionalists who want to hold onto the many saké traditions. Other produc- ers focus so much on production they lose the folk- lore," says Sharon Teach, owner of Ajisai Consulting & Import near Sacramento. She's working with Japan's Hakushika Saké (celebrating its 350th year in 2012) to focus on the modern American markets. That strategy includes some image makeover when developing new products. Teach says Hakushika's easy-to-read labels and memorable graphic images help new consumers associate the saké with the brand. This approach, she says, combined with a push to break out of sushi and Asian restaurants and into more supermarkets and other retail outlets is Hakushika's way of gaining U.S. market share. "I can't over-emphasize the importance of imple- menting a marketing strategy that truly understands the American consumer," Teach says, "especially with the many hard to pronounce names." That's not been much of a problem for TY KU, the imported Japanese sake with the sleek, distinct bottle. Plus, TY KU has made the leap out of the sushi restaurant zone and is served at national chains such as T.G.I. Friday's and Carraba's Italian Grille. Having successfully cultivated image and availability, TY KU recently released Saké Silver, a premium junmai for about $16 a bottle, which brings value to the category. This summer, Dallas has been chilling out with cold saké in cocktails such as Axiom Sushi's Cherry Limeade Sakétini. PHOTO: ANTHONY HEAD