The SOMM Journal

October/November 2014

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24 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2014 { in service } THE PROVERB "BEAUTY IS IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER" is common enough. Perhaps more apropos, and heard throughout the wine world, is the Latin phrase, "De gustibus non est disputan - dum," translating roughly to "matters of taste are not for dispute." When it comes to wine, like many other areas of our lives, we should be left to decide for ourselves not only what we like to drink but also at what temperature. Nevertheless, a little back- ground of traditions and seasonal influence can be guidelines to enjoying wine today. In other words, a basic understanding of the serving temperatures of classic wines can be a foundation for any wine server and wine lover. The old belief that white wines ought to be served chilled and that red wines ought to be served "room temperature" is frankly too simplistic. Wine contains alcohol and alcohol molecules expand as they warm up. This can cause any wine—white, red, pink, sparkling or fortified—to lack structure and feel texturally "flabby" on the palate if the wine is served too warm. Conversely, wines with a chill (cooler than the average 72 degrees Fahrenheit "room temperature") will maintain balanced alcohol and acidity levels on the palate, consequently showing the true potential or best expression of the wine. Naturally, there are best practices for ensuring the most appropriate serving temperatures for various wines. Restaurants that are serious about wine generally maintain a wine cellar or storage area that may be kept at a cool 56–65 degrees Fahrenheit. This will enable a server to open a bottle of red wine before a course is served and the wine will gradually warm up in the dining room. Similarly, many restaurants have a designated cooler for storing sparkling wines, whites, and rosés. In warmer climates, the restaurant may keep the temperature even lower than the standard 45–50 degrees Fahrenheit, knowing that the wine will warm up quickly once served. Competent wine service should always have a policy and plan for serving wines at appropriate temperatures (see sidebar box for recommended ranges). However, there must also be solutions and alternatives when certain scenarios present themselves. For example, if a guest orders a wine and it is not chilled to their liking, an ice bucket should be utilized immediately and an alternative wine may be offered to the guest as they wait for the original wine. On the other hand, if a wine is served too chilled to the likes of a guest, the wine temperature will raise quickly if decanted into a room-temperature, wide-bellied decanter. In addition, wines warm up in their glasses in most dining rooms. Many guests enjoy the subtle shift in the aromas and flavors of quality wines as they gently change temperature in a glass. Finally, most wine lovers acknowledge that there are some guidelines in the industry for suggested wine serving tempera - tures. My professional experience has led me down a dual path: First, I know what the industry standards are and I am confident to recommend serving temperatures to guests; second, I recog- nize that like other matters of taste, everyone has his or her own preferences. Someone might like their Pinot Noir served at 58 degrees and someone else at 65 degrees. In the end, I believe that wine legend Oz Clarke said it best: "The pleasures of eating and drinking operate on so many levels that hard and fast rules simply make no sense." Chill Factor WINE SERVING TEMPERATURES ARE SUBJECTIVE . . . TO A DEGREE by Christie Dufault RECOMMENDED SERVING TEMPERATURE RANGES NV Sparkling Wines ........................................................ 40–45° F Vintage/Rich Sparkling Wines ................................... 44–50° F Crisp/Light/Young White Wines..............................42–48° F Rosé Wines ........................................................................... 45–50° F Rich/Weighty/Complex/Aged White Wines ..... 47–52° F Light/Fruity/Youthful Red Wines ............................. 55–62° F Rich/Weighty/Complex/Mature Red Wines .... 60–68° F White Dessert Wines ..................................................... 45–50° F

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