Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/39104
AUSTRIA T he Austrians have both a zest for life and a sense of organiza- tion. There are copious amounts of beer on just about every street corner, and the trains and buses run on time. This being Central Europe, the food is terrific, and as befits one of the former capital states of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, culture abounds. I mean, what’s not to like? As for the wine, there are more than 300 grape varieties cur- rently planted in Austria, which is quite a small country with fewer than 10 million inhabitants. While Niederösterreich in the northeast contains the most famous Austrian wine regions, includ- ing Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal, the southeastern districts of Carnuntum and, especially, Burgenland (home to 5,000 hectares of vines) are equally fascinating areas with many top-notch bottles readily available worldwide. The huge Neusiedler See (or Lake Neusiedl) is the central fea- ture of the Burgenland’s terroir. The lake is 75 percent contained within Austria (the remainder is Hungarian) and is around 13 miles long. It covers more than 120 square miles but is nowhere more than six feet deep. Such bathtub geography promotes warm, wet winds that significantly influence the vineyards that dot the surrounding countryside. While wine lovers have long enjoyed the dessert wines that emanate from this small pocket of southeastern Austria, few appreciate how much terrific dry white and red is also being produced here. Varied soils and topography mean that terroir- specific sub-appellations are springing up everywhere, from the relatively new Leithaberg wines in the Donnerskirchen area that Red, White and FAMED FOR DESSERT WINES, AUSTRIA’S BURGENLAND HOLDS MANY OTHER DELIGHTS has only achieved separate recognition in the last few years, to more established Mittel (middle) and Sud (south) Burgenland. Sudburgenland also contains the new Eisenberg DAC, as well as some of the most innovative winemaking in all of Europe. Burgenland whites are produced from many grape varietals including Chardonnay (part of Austria’s vinous heritage for many hundreds of years), Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Grüner Veltliner. The main reds are native Blaufränkisch (by far the majority of red plantings) as well as St. Laurent (a relative of Pinot Noir) and Zweigelt, a crossing of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent developed in 1922 by Professor Fritz Zweigelt. Although botrytis comes to the Burgenland almost every year, 2008’s cold, wet conditions created an especially tough harvest for dry wines. However, those who made difficult choices and strenu- 96 / the tasting panel / august 201 1 by Ben Weinberg Sticky All Over Above: Shallow Lake Neusiedl greatly influences the style and character of the wines in Burgenland. Top: Vineyards in South Burgenland. Middle: The dessert wines from Burgenland are world-famous.