Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/39104
The Piazza del Popolo in Ascoil Picena. As in the rest of Italy, regional cuisine is a source of great pride in the Marche.” and cauliflower cooked by Alberto Melagrana at his restaurant Antico Furlo in Acqualagna. The risotto and snapper roasted in parchment at the one-star Alceo in Pesaro were sublime. Symposium 4 Stagioni, a Michelin one-star in Cartoceto, offers the most complete menu of regional cuisine. The egg tagliatelle with truffles was brilliant. Down the coast from Pesaro in Senigallia is uliassi, the eponymous two-star restaurant of Mauro Uliassi, which serves some of the finest seafood dishes I’ve ever tasted. The crisped mullet with parsley sauce, pear and anchovies was transcendental, not to mention the shrimp with hazelnuts, potato purée, truffles and mushroom glaze. The local cheese is also not to be missed. Casciotta d’Urbino is a rich cow and sheep’s milk round that combines easily with the local cooking. Drinking Locally The wines of the Marche are bright, fresh and irresistible. There are two widely produced DOC whites: Bianchello del Metauro and Verdicchio. Bianchello is made from Biancame, a rare local grape. It’s a smooth, aromatic, floral white best consumed young. Verdicchio is a bright variety related to Trebbiano; it is crisp, aromatic and finishes with a hint of almonds. Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi is the most common DOC (my favorite producer is Santa Maria d’Arco), but Verdicchio di Matelica is a denser, more minerally version (best were wines by la Monacesca and Belisario Cambrugiano). Rosso Cònero, such as these from Piantate Lunghe and Umani Ronchi, is the best-known red from the Marche. Many typical local red wines are made from Sangiovese and the best-known DOC red is Rosso Cònero, which is mostly Montepulciano. My favorite was the 2007 by Piantate lunghe, a seductive wine with 15% Sangiovese in the blend, and umani Ronchi is another good producer. Another interesting red is Pergola, a new DOC in 2005, made from Vernaccia di Pergola, which is related to Aleatico. My favorite produc- ers are Pandolfi Orsini and Massioli. Local vintners are also trying their hand at new varieties. I was most taken with a lovely Pinot Noir made by Mancini, a Pesaro producer. The Marche is one of the great delights of Italy and it is waiting to be discovered. There are regular flights from Rome to Ancona and frequent trains from Florence and Bologna to Pesaro. august 201 1 / the tasting panel / 89 PHOTO COURTESY OF REGIONE MARCHE TOURISM DEPARTMENT PHOTO COURTESY OF COMUNE DI ACQUALAGNA