Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/39104
THE MeSSAGe ournalist, politician, civic leader and Chairman of Gruppo illy S.p.A., Riccardo Illy has navigated many universes. But it’s a return to earthly beginnings that had him on the road this year. Illy was in New York City with his portfolio of Brunellos from Mastrojanni, the Tuscan wine estate he pur- chased in 2008. He also poured a 2009 Rosso di Montalcino, the estate’s newest vintage. The winery is a return to a lost past. Illy’s grandfather, Francesco, lost their family farm near Trieste after World War II. Illy said it’s long been the desire of the family to have piece of the good earth. “My father’s roots were in farming, and the farm has always been in our hearts,” he said. They purchased the winery in 2008. Riccardo Illy with his portfolio of Brunellos his Tuscan wine estate. The elder Illy produced the silver-tinned coffee that is now a global icon. Riccardo, 56, stepped into the family business at a young age, and under his watch the company expanded into high-quality chocolate, tea and fruit pre- serves. Somewhere in between, he authored a few books, served as mayor of Trieste, and was elected to the Italian Parliament. After building a global port- folio, he turned to something more local: the Mastrojanni estate in Montalcino. Here, he combines Old and New Worlds. Illy kept the same winemaker and stayed close to its Brunello heritage. But changes at the winery include replanting some vines and introducing integrated viticulture. A new cellar was designed to age wine under the most natural conditions possible. Best of all, Mastrojanni’s Old World craftsmanship isn’t at odds with the current economy. The wines are approachable for those who love a Tuscan pedigree but don’t love the prices. The fl agship Brunello ranges from $60–$70 SRP depending on vintage. The Rosso di Montalcino—the “baby Brunello”— is $25 for 2008; $30 for 2009. —Lana Bortolot Hang (Ten) Time A Rich Frank of Frank Family Vineyards (left) with THE TASTING PANEL’S Anthony Dias Blue. Vineyards, invited press members to a sneak preview of his latest show on FX, Wilfred. The surreal sitcom stars Elijah Wood as inse- cure bachelor Ryan who befriends his neighbor Sarah’s dog Wilfred (played by Jason Gann), whom Ryan sees as an irrepressibly forthright guy in a dog suit. Frank’s guests were treated not only to the fi rst two episodes of Wilfred, but also to a selection of Frank Family Vineyards wines, including the charming Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine, the earthy Reserve Carneros Pinot Noir and the stunning Winston Hill red blend. —David Gadd Wags and Wines I n June, television producer Rich Frank, owner of Frank Family Mr. Co≠ ee Returns to His Roots J dopting a “think different” attitude was the Wine, Waves & Beyond festival—a three-day bacchanal celebrating the connections between the Central Coast region’s love of vino and love of waves. A longboard competition highlighted the charity benefi ciary AmpSurf, a locally-based organization dedicated to empowering amputees through teaching them to surf. It didn’t hurt that many of the area’s winemakers are surfers themselves—in fact, an entire heat of the boarding contest is dedicated to vintners and viticul- turalists who hang ten, including Chronic/Peachy Canyon’s Josh Beckett, Niner’s Patrick Muran, Adelaida’s Terry Culton, Kenneth Volk Vineyards’ Michael Brughelli, Denner Vineyards’ Mike Chase, Beckmen Vineyards’ Kyle Knapp, Chris Taranto of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance and Oded Shakked of the aptly-named Longboard vineyards. —E. C. Gladstone 20 / the tasting panel / august 201 1 Chronic Cellars/Peachy Canyon winemaker Josh Beckett rode the waves to wine the fi nal Winemaker Heat. A Paso Robles native, Beckett was actually a surfer before rediscovering his winemaking roots. PHOTO: LANA BORTOLOT