Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/376390
140 / the tasting panel / september 2014 SADAO NELSON Wine Director, Sommelier, Vespaio Ristorante/ Enoteca, Austin "None." That about sums up Sadao Nelson's set of expectations he normally brings to winemaker events. "When it comes to food-and-wine pairing, I have some basic guidelines, but I'm more open to the artistic interpretation. I'm open to whatever they bring to the table. I look for the experiences of wine, the philoso- phies of wine." At Vespaio and its next-door sister property, Enoteca, the chef-driven, farm-to-table Italian cuisine is paired with a wine program driven by many of those same philosophies. Nelson looks for Old World styles from small and family-owned labels with a history of tradi- tional farming and winemaking methods. "I think of it as my mission to find the most artisanal and natural wines for our guests," he says. "Those characteristics may be trendy now, but they've always translated to better flavors and better philosophies." Murrieta's Well 2011 The Spur Red Blend Sadao's Notes: A lovely and well- balanced red blend. Notes of blueberries and black cherry are carried and supported by bright acidity and well-rounded tannins. Sadao's Pairings: This is a good red meat wine and is wonderful with the blade steak and charred tomatoes—the ripe juicy fruit profile, good acidity and earthy smokiness complement this dish perfectly. This full-bodied wine would pair well with our hanger strip with veal jus and crisp fries. BRIAN PHILLIPS Manager/Sommelier, Eddie V's, Austin Eddie V's opened in 2000 and is one of the busiest restaurants in Austin. It's a steak- house, so red meat and fish compose the main framework, and Sommelier Brian Philips serves a lot of Cabs and Chards from California producers. "We want to represent them," he says. "They're consistent performers—and have been for a long time—and I want to take care of them in house." Philips says Eddie V's also places a premium on wine knowledge and that the staff is very discerning when it comes to subtleties between various wine regions. "Today," he says, "I'm excited to learn more about the Wente clone for Chardonnay. It's got so much history. And to get to hear it from Mr. Wente himself is special." Murrieta's Well 2012 The Whip White Blend Brian's Notes: Noticeable terpene qualities, uplifted floral aromas, tropical fruit and a sense of sweeter fruit. Round and full-bodied. Brian's Pairings: The sweetness of the fruit profile in The Whip acts as a foil to the spiciness of the habanero slaw on the oyster taquitos. This wine is very palate-cleansing, adding freshness to the pairing between bites. The Whip would pair well with the Australian lobster tail topped with Maryland crab cake at Eddie V's. A full-bodied, slightly sweet white, paired with a rich buttery lobster and crab dish is heaven! PAULA RESTER Wine Director, Congress, Austin "At Congress, we do seasonally driven, modern American cuisine," says Paula Rester, who also over- sees the wine programs for Congress's two sister prop- erties, Bar Congress and Second Bar + Kitchen. "And we've just rolled out a new à la carte menu, where we take all the fresh produce we can get our hands on at the local farmers' markets and create tasting menus for summer. It's five courses with five wines." For Rester's culinary needs, wines should be food-friendly and terroir-driven. She says there are a few "recognizable" brands on her list, but she typically seeks out small production wines inspired by a sense of place. While familiar with Wente, Rester says the notion of tasting so many of them at once while being paired with foods piqued her interest in the luncheon. Wente Vineyards 2010 Brut (Arroyo Seco, Monterey) Paula's Notes: Citrus, stone fruit and red currant with creamy vanilla and a clean, mineral finish. Thirst quenching! Paula's Pairings: This was a perfect aperitif for catching up with my fellow Austin somms at the start of our meal! This was a nice bridge to the oyster taquitos as well; the mineral component playing off the salinity of the oyster and refreshing the palate after each bite of spicy habanero coleslaw. At Congress, I would match this wine up with our paddlefish caviar with medallions of brown butter poached lobster with parsnip mousse and baguette. Bubbles and caviar! Hurrah! The creamy vanilla note nicely complements the parsnip mousse as well.