Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/376390
september 2014 / the tasting panel / 139 FABIEN JACOB Sommelier, Bohanan's Prime Steaks & Seafood, San Antonio "It's important to interact with my fellow sommeliers," says Fabien Jacob of Bohanan's, among San Antonio's most respected restaurants. "Peoples' tastes are open- ing up. It used to be only white with fish. But I think it is changing because of people like us. Yes, it's okay to have a Pinot Noir with a nice tuna steak or swordfish. Yes, rosé is actually a dry wine that pairs with many things, like chicken and fish and cold cuts. Things change a lot and, because of events like this, we get to introduce new concepts." Jacob also made the trip to Austin, he says, because it's not every day you get to meet someone with Karl Wente's history: "It's wonderful to hear a fifth- generation winemaker talk and give his knowledge. For me, that's important to know about." The Nth Degree 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Fabien's Notes: This is a great full-bodied wine with a classically Cabernet nose; cassis, ripe cherries, cocoa and coffee. Firm tannins and long on the finish. Fabien's Pairings: I thought this paired best with the blade steak al pastor and the enchiladas callejeras. This wine would find a multitude of dishes to pair with at Bohanan's, but I think it would find its voice best alongside our dry-aged New York steak with sautéed mushrooms and blue cheese. RIAAN NEL Director, Food & Beverage, Omni Hotels & Resorts Barton Creek, Austin Exclusive tastings like this help Riaan Nel find products with the full understanding that individual tastes vary widely in food and wine. In addition to his out-of-state guests, a large number of people staying at Omni Barton Creek come from within the huge state of Texas, including weekend escapees from Austin. "It's a diverse group to take care of," Nel says. "They need a lot of interesting beverages." Omni encourages individual properties to develop programs around their clients' wishes, he explains, adding, "Sure, the old standards are still around—Bordeaux and Cabs still complement red meat better than most anything else—but the customers still have the final word. There's no right or wrong for me in that respect. Wente Vineyards 2012 Charles Wetmore Cabernet Sauvignon Riaan's Notes: Plush and generous, this wine is chock-full of dark berries and chocolate, wrapped in warm oak tannins. Silky on the palate, with just enough structure to keep the fruit in check. Riaan's Pairings: This is a natural with the blade steak al pastor. The richness of the fruit comple- ments the charred tomatoes, while the tannin structure plays nicely with the blade steak. I think this wine would be a cool, although somewhat unconventional pairing, with our "Austin" poutine—the shiner bock cheddar cheese sauce and slow-smoked brisket would complement the tannins and dark fruit. LEXEY JOHNSON Sommelier/Manager, Vino Vino, Austin In cool, funky Hyde Park, just north of the University of Texas campus, Vino Vino is a neighborhood restaurant serving seasonal, local cuisine. The wine list leans Old World and represents small production and sustainable farming practices as much as possible. Lexey Johnson wants her wines to be affordable so customers can enjoy them as a part of everyday life and not just for special occasions. They should also be fun and interest- ing. "I like selling wines on their stories. I love it when a wine will intrigue a customer on a cerebral level," she says. Johnson attends events like the Wente luncheon to hear the winemaker's stories and, she says, to get together with her colleagues. "I want to hear how they weigh in on different wines, too, and see if they believe certain wines can have an impact on our local market." Wente Vineyards 2010 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir Lexey's Notes: Tons of fruit and spice in this wine! Black cherry, dark chocolate-covered cranberries, black olives and toast. Lexey's Pairings: The blade steak plays up the spice characteristics in this Pinot, turning it into a whole different tasting experience. I would pair this with the pork chop we serve at Vino Vino—classic yet fun—and the Pinot Noir would bring out the slight sweetness of the meat.