Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/343109
AGE OF RIBERA • E SOMMS & BUYERS Wine #13: Bodegas Protos 2009 Protos Reserva ($50) Eric Larkee's tasting notes: Up-front vanilla notes followed by rich blueberry and espresso notes; a lightly metallic taste gives way to a smooth wine and moderate tannins. Perfectly paired: "Brian Grandison called this with the onion soup, and that was spot on. The unctuous rich wine, hits the high notes of the dish and it's all rich on rich." —E. L. Wine #15: Bodegas Trus 2006 Trus Reserva ($45) Brian Grandison's tasting notes: Superbly balanced, smoky with dark raspberry notes and black olives, followed by sour cherry notes leading to a rustic, cacao and coffee bean finish. Perfectly paired: "Went great with the pork belly; the acid in the wine was elevated by the marinated onions in the dish." —B. G. Wine #14: Legaris 2006 Reserva ($36) Jonathan Cristaldi's tasting notes: Ripe red strawberry, blackberry jam, raisin and gently coating tannins deliver a slightly raisiny, sweet oak character augmented by high notes of crushed rose petals all culminating with tea leaves and tobacco on the finish. Perfectly paired: "The pork belly and this wine together is like being at Disneyland with a free-pass that puts you at the head of the line, plus unlimited rides and unlimited food. Dreamy." —J. C. Wine #16: Viñedos Alonso del Yerro 2006 Maria ($65) Carol Lopez-Bethel's tasting notes: Velvety, mature and integrated savory flavors; barnyard and black truffles, dried blueberries and purple flowers. Perfectly paired: "The barnyard ele- ments of the wine perfectly comple- ment and balance flavors of the pork belly." —C. L. B. :: the wines :: Genuine Hospitality Group Wine Director Eric Larkee loves the range of versatility in Spanish wine. "Spain can be hard to nail down, and because of the coun- try's diversity it can be hard to define the region—between new and old there are so many permeations for winemak- ing," he says. For Genuine Hospitality, Larkee says it's about where Ribera fits into the greater Temperanillo conversation. "What's the story we can tell when someone looks at the Temperanillo section of the menu? It's not so much expand- ing a region, but having the right players on the field to sat- isfy price point and style," says Larkee. "Even in the range of styles that we tasted at this event, you can find a Ribera wine that can play midfielder or goalie; you can show a gamey, intense Ribera or something vibrant and fruit-focused." Larkee says one of the finest points of his experience at the Ribera tasting was having chefs at the tasting and not just somms and buyers, but people who are creating food and encouraging dialogue. "Those conversations can continue over the course of months and even years," he says, further adding, "We get to focus on how these wines pair with food; to bat things back and forth with them is very constructive and enlightening." —K. M. Brian Grandison, Sommelier, Michael's Genuine Food and Drink; Seth Witte, Sommelier, Fountainebleau; Eric Larkee, Wine Director, The Genuine Hospitality Group.