The SOMM Journal

May 2014

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94 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 { deconstructing dishes } "My background has always been very classical, very technical," say Chef Anthony Martin. CHICAGO'S TRU IS A MODERNIST RESTAURANT with classical roots—the sort of special-occasion destination where langoustine are "scented" with juniper and served with caramelized chestnuts, and Wagyu beef is infused with aromatics and served with spiced radish and umeboshi plums. And the defining dish of the restaurant—a dish ordered by an estimated 60 percent of the diners—is the Roasted Muscovy Duck, a dish that sounds like something Brillat-Savarin or Escoffier would have enjoyed. But they never enjoyed one quite like the duck prepared by Executive Chef Anthony Martin. Merrill Shindler: Can you tell us how the duck wound up on the menu? Anthony Martin: I like to do dishes that are very approachable. Also social and interactive. This dish gets guests involved in sharing and passing smaller plates. The whole roasted duck is for two guests. They can see the whole presentation at the tableside. Where do you get your ducks? We tested extensively. We tasted a lot of ducks. We finally found a co-op in Upstate New York, where the quality was consistent and the ducks were how we wanted them to be. They're all free- range, all antibiotic and hormone free. They live a great life, as ducks go. We need to order them ten to 12 days before we need them. They don't just go out and grab a duck. They choose the right duck. "More Classical Than Crazy" ROASTED MUSCOVY DUCK AT TRU IN CHICAGO WITH CHEF ANTHONY MARTIN by Merrill Shindler / photos by Anjali Pinto Q: Q: Somm Journal June/July.indd 94 5/9/14 12:12 PM

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