The SOMM Journal

May 2014

Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/314991

Contents of this Issue

Navigation

Page 92 of 107

{ SOMMjournal.com }  93 Nile Zacherle of Montagna winery in the Pritchard Hill district of Napa Valley has recently planted Fiano, Ribolla Gialla, Arneis and Coda di Volpe on their property, in a spot where Sauvignon Blanc vines had struggled to produce quality grapes and hopes to have an estate blended white in three to four years. Thoroughly enjoying the challenge, Nile describes making white blends as "driving a whole different car." For the moment, however, he is sourc- ing these Italian wine varieties from appellations like Yolo and Butte County because these Italian variet- ies in Napa Valley have been "gobbled up." This shortage of white grapes can be partially blamed on our commitment to finding and plant- ing the "right" grape for each growing region in California. In 2012, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot represented 61% of all grapes planted in Napa Valley, versus just 36% of Napa's total grape acreage in 1992. Unfortunately, identifying the right variety for each growing region in California somehow ignores the fact that, unlike France, we're not obligated to plant specific varieties in specific regions. Shouldn't we be celebrating the freedom and diversity of choice in our grape planting and winemaking here in the U.S., rather than creating homogeneity by predominantly planting one grape in a region? "Creating" a Wine However appropriate Cabernet Sauvignon is for Napa Valley, it's impossible for growers and wineries to ignore the soaring prices that these grapes are fetching. Prices for Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon are rumored to reach $24,000 a ton this year. As Matthiasson laments. "Nine out of ten vineyard owners plant Cabernet Sauvignon based on the prices from Napa Valley Annual Crush Report, and there aren't any white grapes that can compete in the same price arena as Cabernet Sauvignon." Recently, Étienne de Montille of Domaine Montille in Volnay visited Matthiasson here in Napa. An excited Matthiasson anxiously shared his White Blend with de Montille, not really know- ing how he would react to this unique white wine. As Steve explains, "Étienne loved the wine. He said, 'You've actually created something here. I've never created a wine; I simply try to reveal what is already there.'" There is art in revealing the beauty of indi- vidual grapes and their expression of terroir here in California, but there is also an incredible opportu- nity for our talented winemakers to showcase their creativity and talent in making blended wines. White blends, as well as red blends. PHOTO COURTESY OF MONTAGNA Montagna plans to graft this 1.6 arces to four Italian varieties: Coda di Volpe, Fiano, Arneis and Ribolla Gialla, using rootstock 3309 with 3x6 spacing on Hambright and Henneke soils. Somm Journal June/July.indd 93 5/9/14 12:12 PM

Articles in this issue

Archives of this issue

view archives of The SOMM Journal - May 2014