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92 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 { real somm stories } not only take into consideration the aromas and flavors, but also the chemistry of the wines. I personally don't feel that the Ribolla and Friulano would make a more interesting wine on their own than they do as a blended wine." In 2005, noted Napa Valley viticultur- ist and wine producer Steve Matthiasson's goal of making a refreshing, leaner style of Sauvignon Blanc that would complement the fresh produce of his garden, coupled with a timely trip to Friuli Venezia Giulia, resulted in the creation of his Matthiasson White Blend. Steve calls the blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, Friulano and Semillon the "flagship wine" of the 16 wines that he makes under the Matthiasson label. Matthiason points out that we've forgot- ten that Napa Valley is an ideal climate for red and white grapes. The significant diurnal shift we get here as a result of the fog and cool air from San Pablo Bay is just as ideal for white varieties and preserving their flavors and acidities. "White grapes actually handle hot spells better than red grapes," he notes. "White grapes don't have to wait for polym- erization of tannins and can be picked earlier, their lighter skin color doesn't absorb the heat as much, not as much color and flavor is lost during heat spells and white grape vines are naturally more vigorous and resilient vines." White Shortage Unfortunately, the opportunity to make these white wine blends isn't that easy. White wine grape acreage in California is not growing. In 2012, red wine grape acreage in California totaled approximately 300,000 acres, while white wine acreage totaled about 180,000 acres. In 1992, the total acres planted to red grapes was 150,000 acres and 175,000 for white grapes. In that 20 year period, red wine grape acre- age doubled and white wine acreage increased just 3%. Atypical Napa Valley winemaker Steve Matthiasson considers the White Blend his label's "flagship wine." "The shortage of white grapes can be partially blamed on our commitment to finding and planting the "right" grape for each growing region in California."" PHOTO COURTESY OF MATTHIASSON Carbernet? Not today! Freshly harvested white grapes arrive at the crushpad for the Matthiasson White Blend. Somm Journal June/July.indd 92 5/9/14 12:12 PM