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66 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2014 acres of vines in Valtellina at that time. From the 16th to the 18th centuries, exports to the north doubled. But the 19th and early 20th centuries were not so easy for Valtellina. Vine infections as well as an ongoing transfer of power brought upheaval. Powdery mildew in the 1800s and phyl- loxera in the early 1900s destroyed nearly all of the vines and thus the wine export market. All of the vineyards had to be replanted within the span of one generation. But exports to Switzerland resumed and continued on through the late 20th century. The Swiss and Italian governments set up a trade accord specifying how many millions of liters of bulk wine to send north each year. But in the late 1990s, that agreement was eliminated. Now the focus in Valtellina is on quality, and there are only about 1,500 acres under cultivation in the best locations. The current generation of winemakers possesses the skills to produce globally competi- tive wines but maintain the tradition that defines Valtellina wines as unique. Appellations and Subzones Valtellina attained DOCG status for its Valtellina Superiore wines in 1998. The Valtellina Superiore DOCG appellation includes but is not limited to the following subzones: Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, and Valgella. Reaching just beyond the Superiore-delimited area is the area approved for Rosso di Valtellina DOC (awarded DOC status in 1968). DOCG status wines must be aged for a minimum of 24 months, 12 of which must be in barrel (of any size) and have a minimum of 90% Nebbiolo, although most are 100%. Other minor indigenous varieties exist in small percentages in the area: Brugnola, Pignola, and Rossola. Another autochthonous grape called Merlina, specific to Maroggia, is believed to be similar to Teroldego of Trentino. The potential addition of Merlina and the mediating effects of winds from Lake Como to the west, locally called breva winds, contribute to the full, soft and balanced character of the DOCG Maroggia wines. In contrast to Maroggia, the next subzone, called Sassella, generally produces mineral- driven wines. Michela Rainoldi of Aldo Rainoldi explains that this zone is named after sasso, the Italian word for "stone," because of its stony iron- and mineral-rich soil. Further to the east, named for the 13th-century church that sits atop a distinct hill overlooking the valley, the Grumello subzone is known for wines that are earthy and round. Compared to its neighbors, rocks make up a smaller percentage of the soil of Grumello. Neighboring Grumello directly east is a nar- row strip of the hottest and steepest vineyards in Valtellina. Appropriately named Inferno ("hell" in Italian), its rocky soils absorb intense sunlight and release heat throughout the night. In fact, the soil A sign points the way to the Nino Negri winery in Chiuro. Rocky soils are the norm in Valtellina, as here at Pietro Nera. Somm Journal June/July.indd 66 5/9/14 12:10 PM