The SOMM Journal

May 2014

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OTHER FACE { SOMMjournal.com }  65 the far reaches of the northern Italian Alps, a patchwork of steeply terraced vineyards graces the northern side of a valley in Lombardy that stretches 25 miles east to west. The vineyards, all facing south, receive optimum sun exposure and are ideal for growing grapes. Winemaking here dates back to the first millennium, and while governmental control has changed hands many times between then and now, the valley has always maintained its singular identity as the "valley of Teglio," named after its ancient capital city but now simply called Valtellina. Valtellina is the only well-established and recognized wine region outside of Piedmont dedicated almost completely to growing and making Nebbiolo. In fact, the local name for the grape, Chiavennasca, comes from old Italian dialect, ciuvenasca, where ciu is the old form of piu, meaning "more" and venasca meant "suited for making wine." In 1512 A.D., the Grisons of Switzerland invaded Valtellina, took control of all of the winemaking and secured themselves, as well as their allies, a source of quality wine in the years to come. The 16th-century cultivation records in Valtellina (the oldest on record) tell us that there were approximately 3,500 In Amid the Italian Alps in Valtellina: the Carterìa vineyard at Vini Fay. Somm Journal June/July.indd 65 5/9/14 12:10 PM

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