Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/221505
THE MESSAGE The Next Generation of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc here were about 20 of us, seated around an elegant table in a private room of L.A.'s chic Soho House, overlooking the city, when the Global Wine Ambassador for Brancott Estate, Jim Robertson, a tall well-dressed fellow with a rich Kiwi accent, informed us that we were the first group of people in the United States to try "the next evolution of Sauvignon Blanc" from New Zealand. He was talking about the 3,500-case production of the Brancott 2010 Chosen Rows (SRP $48), a 100% Sauvignon Blanc barrel fermented and aged in 4,000-liter foudres. About 78% of wine produced in New Zealand is Sauvignon Blanc and 80% of that production is exported. If previous examples of this varietal, famous for its distinct gooseberry aromatics, are fruit-driven and meant to be consumed early, the next generation is all about structure, texture and complexity—wines meant for aging. Global Wine Ambassador Jim Robertson noses the Over a family-style meal we tasted the 2010 Chosen Rows 2010 Brancott Estate Chosen Rows Sauvignon Blanc. against five other world-class Sauvignon Blancs Robertson had selected as a means of showing Brancott's direction and inspiration, and because he felt strongly that his wine showed just as well, if not better. Most notably, pitted against a 2010 Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé "Silex" (a highly praised wine meant to age a dozen or more years), the Chosen Rows held its own, showing as much mineral complexity and gorgeous aromatics of grapefruit, lemon lime, fig, kiwi and a mouth-watering acidity. Robertson waxed poetic on food pairings: "If it swims in the ocean, buries its head in the sand or clings to a rock," by all means. —J.C. PHOTO: BRENT MULLINS PHOTOGRAPHY T Meet the New Belle Époque PHOTO: JONATHAN CRISTALDI F Ariane Bouron of Pernod Ricard USA and Perrier-Jouët Master Distiller Hervé Deschamps with the new 2006 vintage Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque. rom across a crowded room, you recognize it at once—the gorgeous Art Nouveau–inspired white Japanese anemones, outlined in shimmering gold that grace a bottle of vintage-dated Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque. As I made my way to a table at Mr. Chow's in Beverly Hills, I could see a familiar face: the ever-smiling Hervé Deschamps, Perrier-Jouët's Cellar Master—one of just seven in the history of the house. Perrier-Jouët has deep-rooted relationships with a handful of growers in addition to owning some vineyards of their own. "Three weeks before the harvest you know if the grapes will be of high enough quality to declare a Belle Époque vintage," says Deschamps. "You need to have that Indian summer, for last-minute ripening," adds Ariane Bouron, the bright-eyed Champagne Ambassador for Pernod Ricard USA. Those familiar with the 2004 Belle Epoque will find a refreshing new face with the 2006 vintage—delicate and persistent beads thread their way to noticeable white fruit, pears and apples wafting from the glass and a creamy mousse blossoms in the mouth, rich and silky, liquid stone and salt and vibrant noticeable acidity. Those of us at the table were reveling the moment when Deschamps, visible with joie de vivre said: "Just wait till you try it with the duck." The new vintage bottling is slated for a late fall or early spring 2014 release. —J. C. 20 / the tasting panel / december 2013 TP1213_001-33.indd 20 11/22/13 8:37 PM