The Tasting Panel magazine

December 2013

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DEPARTMENT HEADER Most Bragging Rights Most Crafty Soyombo Vodka, Mongolia ($30) Le Merle Saison Belgian Farmhouse Style Ale, USA When a vodka shows up boasting a legitimate twist and firstrate story, we perk up. Soyombo is crafted in small batches at a distillery located on the site of the Winter Palace of Mongolia's last Emperor. It is distilled from wheat grown on the steppes of Mongolia's Selenge Province, where it is bitter cold and the growing season is markedly short. Water is sourced from an 800,000-year-old well deep within the earth, and the spirit is distilled six times and filtered over diamonds, silver, quartz and charcoal—a process that takes about five days and produces an attention-getting new vodka that will take on all comers. From the first nosing of antique rose and lemon oil, this spirit leans towards a heady quality reminiscent of incense and candles. On the palate the texture is sumptuous, but with a teasing peppered nip on mid-tongue. The finish is exotic and laced with espresso bean and slate. MHW. LTD. From California's North Coast by way of Flanders comes this stunning Belgian-style saison. North Coast Brewing, opened in 1988 as a local brewpub in the historic town of Fort Bragg, on the Mendocino Coast, was—and is—a pioneer in the American craft beer movement. Under capable Brewmaster Mark Ruedrich, the brewery has developed a strong reputation with beer fans and critics, and has won more than 70 awards in national and international competitions. Le Merle (the blackbird) is a tribute to Ruedrich's wife, Merle, as well as to the Flanders brewing tradition. Impressively, it won a Gold Medal in the saison category at the 2012 Brussels Beer Challenge. One of the richest, deepest, most complex noses in all beerdom—a cliff-dive into smoke, brimstone and burning coke fires. The palate offers up estery sun-dried white fruit, subtle spice cake, sweet bubblegum, bitter arugula, pear tart . . . and so much more. Superb. NORTH COAST BREWING CO. Most Original Surest Aim Pinkus Ur-Pils, Germany Strongbow Cider This is a definitive German pils from the venerable Bräuerei Pinkus-Müller in Münster, established in 1816. Since that date, there have been 150 breweries in Münsterbut only Pinkus remains. Today, the fifth and sixth generations of the family operate the famous Pinkus-Müller brewery and pub. Quality-driven Pinkus is the world's first brewery to brew only with organically grown barley malt and whole hop blossoms. "Ur" is German for "original," a nod to the use of organic ingredients and to the traditional pils brewing process: a cool, slow fermentation with lager yeast. Cider is back, and HEINEKEN USA is at the forefront with this easy-to-find and easy-to-enjoy heritage brand from H. P. Bulmer of Hereford, England. Embodying 125 years of cider-making process and tradition, Strongbow is now the number-one cider brand in the world. The name and the archer logo refer to 12th-century nobleman Richard "Strongbow" de Clare, the Earl of Pembroke, who was legendary for his skill with the bow and arrow. This is one brand that's right on target. A texture of heavy cream whipped just short of the Chantilly stage. Mouthfilling and complex, yes, but also completely refreshing on the go-down. A real winner—and it's USDA-certified organic to boot. A dry entry with a tinge of bitterness leads to an apple-skin-dry mid-palate that's anything but cloying. Bring on the charcuterie! HEINEKEN USA MERCHANT DU VIN 148  /  the tasting panel  /  december 2013 the tasting panel  TP1213_104-148.indd 148 11/23/13 8:38 PM

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