Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/221505
PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER Foro Extra Dry Vermouth At Maison Noilly Prat, regional wines are aged outside for one year, part of the painstaking process of making this celebrated vermouth. Right: Noilly Prat Ambré was released to celebrate the brand's 200th anniversary. offers a Rouge and a light, dry Blanc version of their Vermouth de Chambéry—France's only appellation d'origine for vermouth. Maurin originated in 1884 when Auguste Maurin founded his distillery in Southeastern France. His original recipes have been re-created with Maurin Dry Vermouth, White Vermouth and Red Vermouth, all recently imported into the U.S. by Anchor Distilling. Not Limited by Geography Another historic brand, Boissière, started in France but is now made in Italy—after all, vermouth is not limited by geography. We're now seeing the emergence of American vermouths, such as Vya from California, Uncouth Vermouth from Brooklyn and Atsby from Long Island. With the exception of Gallo Sweet and Extra Dry, U.S. vermouths all are artisanal endeavors. "I started making my vermouth seven years ago," says Atsby's Adam Ford, "because I was inspired after a trip to Europe to make a vermouth with the finest ingredients that would be totally different than anything made over there—a vermouth made for the sheer enjoyment of drinking it." Indeed, the sweet and sour flavors of Atsby Amberthorn and the cinnamon-herbaceousness of Atsby Armadillo Cake are decidedly different from French or Italian vermouths. But even those two countries are about to inject new dimensions into vermouths. To celebrate its 150th anniversary, Martini is exporting a one-time offering of Gran Lusso, a 1904 recipe using Barbera and Trebbiano wines and aged for eight years in oak barrels—the only Martini vermouth to be woodmatured. And to celebrate their 200th birthday, venerable Noilly Prat is releasing a limited quantity of Noilly Prat Ambré, which uses a combination of 45 spices and herbs, including cardamom, cinnamon and lavender. Once opened, vermouth has a backbar life of about a month—a fact that may dissuade some bars from stocking multiple brands. Keeping the bottle chilled will preserve it longer, but the real solution is to start making more cocktails with vermouth. After all, it is mixology's unsung hero. As a relatively new vermouth that has entered this centuries-old category, Foro Extra Dry exhibits remarkable individuality. Its name is classical Italian for "forum, " and it is the only Italian vermouth made, via cold infusion, from USDA-certified organic grapes, specifically the Trebbiano variety from Piedmont, the acclaimed birthplace of vermouth. In keeping with its organic certification, the botanicals used in Foro must be meticulously selected. They include juniper, cardamom, ginger, coriander, cloves, angelica root, and marjoram, all of which make this a very "gin-centric" vermouth. But Foro Extra Dry Vermouth also incorporates wild rose, gentian, chamomile, elderberry, china bark and angostura, which combine to produce the equivalent of a friendly hug of the taste buds— not overpowering, but definitely with a felt presence. Possessing a characteristically low 18% alcohol level, Foro Extra Dry comes onto the palate with a sweet spiciness that also exhibits a citrus-soaked woodsy undertone, and when sipped at room temperature, the elderberry makes its presence known. When ice is added, the faintest hint of smoke can be found lurking underneath the botanicals. This makes Foro ideal for using with some of the heavier brown spirits such as dark rum and rye. Highly versatile, it is only imported in one liter bottles, which invites experimentation as well as inclusion in standard cocktails. For example, use it to make "Pure Martinis" with Farmer's Organic Gin or Crop Organic Vodka. With its unique multi-dimensional flavors, Foro is an inspiration to further explore the ever-expanding vermouth cocktail scene. —R. C. H. Foro is available through Chatham Imports. december 2013 / the tasting panel / 125 TP1213_104-148.indd 125 11/23/13 8:37 PM