Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/164544
T he first thing you'll notice about VML Winery is the aromatics—thyme, rosemary, lilacs and marjoram tempt the nose into a state of get-away-fromit-all meditation. But wake up: You are in the heart of the Russian River Valley, in California's Sonoma County, not in a Zen garden or at an estate in Burgundy or Bordeaux where terraces surround a solemn château. Here, the redwood trees let you know you're in California. Welcome to the park-like setting of VML, where Virginia Marie Lambrix crafts wines from indigenous grapes under the Russian River Valley–appellation label bearing her initials. When Truett Hurst partner Bill Hambrecht bought this six-acre estate six years ago, his wife, Sally, began gardening plum trees, lemons, limes, quince, chocolate cosmos flowers and apples along with herbs, creating inspiration in close proximity to the home ranch Pinot Noir vines. Thanks to Hambrecht's progressive thinking, this boutique winery just 15 miles from the Pacific has been equipped with state-ofthe-art tools, from small tanks to open-top fermenters and a basket press for gentle handling of fruit, delivering soft tannins and delicate flavors in the wines. The Truett Hurst partnership was created among Hambrecht, Paul Dolan, Heath Dolan and Phil and Sylvia Hurst in November of 2007. Virginia Marie Lambrix was brought in─and is now a partner─to The Wines Phil Hurst, Jim Kopp and Virginia "Ginny" Lambrix, sat with THE TASTING PANEL to taste through the wines from its three unique, appellation-based labels. VML Gewurztraminer Russian , River Valley ($22) "This is one of my favorite wines to make," confesses Virginia Lambrix, who crafts this delicate white with the tightrope balance of sun-kissed white flowers and a caress of lychee. 92 VML 2012 Russian River Sauvignon Blanc ($22) Dried lemon flowers show the Russian River Valley terroir against a grapefruit juiciness that mimics New Zealand. 100% stainless steel–fermented. 92 The Celestial Series: VML Pinor Noir Stars, Moon and Earth showcase a heavenly array of Russian River Valley terroirs—and of Virginia Marie Lambrix's abilities—in three completely different expressions. All priced at $45. Winemaker/Partner Virginia Marie Lambrix. enhance the group's winemaking vision and is now responsible for the Russian River Valley VML wines as well as the Dry Creek Valley wines from Truett Hurst and Bradford Mountain. While at VML on a glorious summer day, we tasted through a selection of wines from the growing Truett Hurst partnership portfolio—some rich with tradition, others pushing the edge of innovation. VML Moon Pinot Noir , Russian River Valley High acidity displays this ethereal goddess in a rosy spice, dotted with white pepper. 91 VML Stars Pinot Noir Russian , River Valley Here, a coastal influence offers up a perfumed beauty, with chocolate covered strawberries adding to its feminine appeal. 94 VML Earth Pinot Noir Russian , River Valley Mother is in a brooding, dark mood, her black fruit inky on the tongue – a surprisingly deep-as-a-well Pinot. 93 Bradford Mountain 2011 Red Field Blend, Dry Creek Valley ($22) From the western slopes of Dry Creek Valley, a blend of 64% Syrah, 26% Zinfandel and 10% Petite Sirah engages the palate with bright, lush sweet blackberry juice with just enough backbone. Its satin texture and well-managed tannins—and its price point— make it a real find. 89 Truett Hurst 2011 Sonoma County "Red Rooster" Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley ($32) This oldvine Zinfandel is a project of Phil Hurst and Paul Dolan—an homage to the critters on their biodynamic estate in Dry Creek Valley. This is a pushing-the-jam-envelope Zin: the rooster struts his stuff, but with assured restraint. Juicy all the way down, the blackberries warm the palate; the acidity is refreshing and mellow. 94 Truett Hurst 2011 "Burning Man" Old Vine Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley ($33) Chalky, chewy tannins don't stop the flow of the pure blackberry sweetness. Ripe, lustfully lush and silky. 93 september 2013 / the tasting panel / 107 TP0913_104-156.indd 107 8/22/13 10:31 PM