6 The Costume Designer Fall 2019
EDITOR'S NOTE
Clothes are never just clothes. They are a mood indicator and
societal barometer. They telegraph time period, aspiration, and
inspiration—all in a glance. In Costume Design, as in life, wom-
en's clothing often eclipses the scene. Men's wear may seem
more uniform, but that is not really the case. At this moment in
fashion, there has never been a more open embrace of gender
fluidity. However, there have always been dandies—even within
the rigor of men's wear. Also, bold women have appropriated
the vocabulary of suits for decades. In the 1930s, Marlene Dietrich wore her exqui-
sitely proportioned Travis Banton tuxedo and top hat with authority. Renée Ehrlich
Kalfus clad Blake Lively with a sartorial sleight of hand in 2018's A Simple Favor. The
language of men's wear is universal. This issue spotlights some of the most recent
incarnations.
There are two types of design, one shouts and one whispers. Costume Designers
have to be masters of both. Men's wear uses the psychology of nuances, from a
cocked hat to a popped collar to convey the character. No detail is silent. Our cover
designer Daniel Orlandi had the boldness to allow the characters to seamlessly sup-
port the story in the film Ford v Ferrari. He reveals his process and the inspiration
it takes to recreate historical figures and their world with powerful understatement.
Because conveying personality succinctly is a necessity, drawing on paradigms
is a vital tool. In "The Peacock, The Maverick, The Suit, & The Scoundrel," we explore
a handful of characters through their archetypes. We talk to Ariyela Wald-Cohain,
Arianne Phillips, Suttirat Larlarb, and Sarah Trost about their strategic approaches.
We also celebrate Debra McGuire's design for the hit television series Friends on
its 25th anniversary. Resonating with audiences worldwide, the show is captivating
an entirely new generation of viewers. Congratulations are also in store for our newly
elected Executive Board. I look forward to your collaboration.
I always thought of the fall issue as the quiet lead up to awards season, but the
magazine you hold in your hands is nearly 100 pages—a new record, and more than
twice as many as the first issue I produced. This speaks to how much people care
about Costume Design. The growing recognition of your artistry is well deserved.
This magazine is not accomplished alone. I am grateful for our hardworking con-
tributors, for the commitment and support of associate editor Bonnie Nipar, and
the passionate vision of our President Salvador Perez—all of whose voices enrich a
beautiful conversation.
Anna Wyckoff
awyckoff@cdgia.com
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Anna Wyckoff
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Bonnie Nipar
PRESIDENT
Salvador Perez
sperez@cdgia.com
VICE PRESIDENT
Cate Adair
cadair@cdgia.com
SECRETARY
Ivy Thaide
ithaide@cdgia.com
TREASURER
Nanrose Buchman
nbuchman@cdgia.com
EXECUTIVE BOARD
Christopher Lawrence
clawrence@cdgia.com
Julie Weiss
jweiss@cdgia.com
Kristin Burke
kburke@cdgia.com
Terry Gordon
tgordon@cdgia.com
Phillip Boutté Jr.
Costume Illustrators Representative
pboutte@cdgia.com
David Matwijkow
ACD Representative
dmatwijkow@cdgia.com
LABOR REPRESENTATIVES
Betty Madden
Dana Woods
BOARD ALTERNATES
Mary Vogt
mvogt@cdgia.com
Carol Ramsey
cramsey@cdgia.com
Nancy Steiner
nsteiner@cdgia.com
Michelle Cole
mcole@cdgia.com
BOARD OF TRUSTEES
Jacqueline Saint Anne
jsaintanne@cdgia.com
Cliff Chally
cchally@cdgia.com
Barbara Inglehart
binglehart@cdgia.com
ALTERNATE TRUSTEE
Dorothy Amos
damos@cdgia.com
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Rachael M. Stanley
rstanley@cdgia.com
ASSISTANT EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Brigitta Romanov
bromanov@cdgia.com
MEMBER SERVICES ADMINISTRATOR
Suzanne Huntington
shuntington@cdgia.com
RECEPTIONIST/SECRETARY
Cecilia Granados
cgranados@cdgia.com
PUBLISHER
IngleDodd Media
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310.207.4410
cdg@IngleDodd.com
www.IngleDoddMedia.com
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