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90 / the tasting panel / may 2018 Coming Your Way: Alternative French Rosé Among its many areas of expertise, Les Grands Chais de France is a rosé specialist offering buyers a wide range of choices in both the still and sparkling pink wine categories. Winemaker Vincent Euzet works with partner-growers across France to source grapes he crafts with a special eye toward quality of color, aroma, and flavor. His regional wines, carrying broad IGP (Indication Géographique Protégée) designations from their respective areas, represent extraor- dinary value—an important selling point for off-premise buyers and end consumers alike. "Thirty percent of the global consumption of rosé wines is concen- trated in France—in some regions, we consume rosé all year long," says Euzet. "This is why the sourcing needs to be diversified and why we note the emergence of appellations like AOP Costières de Nîmes, IGP Aude, and IGP Mediterranée, which, more and more, look like Côtes de Provence and taste like Côtes de Provence, but are not as expensive as Côtes de Provence." The Chemin des Sables IGP Méditerranée (SRP $10) is excellent proof that covetable French rosé need not always carry a Côtes de Provence label. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Cinsault, this pale-pink IGP wine is direct-pressed and vini- fied at low temperatures in order to preserve maximum fruit character. Its fresh, round mouthfeel is ideal as an apéritif, while the striking bottle has a seductive shape that practically invites consumers to reach for it on the shelf. In the Aude basin of Languedoc-Roussillon, situated between Toulouse and Perpignan, GCF produces the Orée des Roses IGP Aude (SRP $8). The name, French for "edge of the rose garden," captures the delicate, aromatic nature of this summery rosé. Grapes grown in light, sandy alluvial soils are harvested, destemmed, and crushed; after a short maceration and pressing, the wine is stored in tanks until it is racked, filtered, and bottled a few days later. To enjoy its refreshing character, this wine is best served chilled to 50–54 degrees Fahrenheit during its first year. Pale blush with strawberry-hued reflections, it offers intense red berry and exotic fruit aromas and flavors that make it a welcome tablemate for grilled meats, salads, or Asian dishes. Another GCF property, Château de Fabrègues, is found in the oldest geological area of the Costières de Nîmes AOP. The appellation surrounds the historic city of Nîmes, the site of many important ancient Roman ruins (the Romans planted vines in this area in ancient times, giving it a long head start in viticulture). Located on one of seven hills in the appellation swept by the Mistral wind, the vineyards at Château de Fabrègues benefit from a northern exposure favorable to maintaining acidity; the clay subsoil, meanwhile, generates small berries that lend themselves to concentrated, beautifully-colored, and aromatic wines. Freshness, delicacy, and elegance are the hallmarks of the Château de Fabrègues AOP Costières de Nîmes (SRP $15), a classic Syrah-Grenache blend from the south of France. With a powder-pink robe and a peony-tinged nose that delivers refined flavors of strawberry and grapefruit, the wine is a worthy accompaniment to healthy Mediterranean cuisine. Of special interest to shoppers is the stylish bottle with a reusable glass closure, a modernized feature that preserves freshness and neutrality while provid- ing an attractive novelty for many consumers. An informative leaflet is also attached to the neck of each bottle. The Season for Pink Wine While the company offers many attractive alternatives to Côtes du Provence rosé, Les Grands Chais de France would certainly be remiss if it ignored the world's largest-selling pink wine appellation. From a fifth-genera- tion family based in Beaujolais, the J. L. Quinson Côtes de Provence AOP (SRP $8) is sourced from coastal vineyards around the Provençal resort of Saint-Tropez—known for its glamor- ous ambiance as well as for its excellent rosé wines. The blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and the indigenous grape Tibouren is produced by a combination of the saignée method and direct pressing. Lively and spicy with salmon-pink color, it calls for charcuterie, fowl, or grilled meats. With summer fast approaching, it's time to stock up on these affordable and intriguing French rosés. As more and more American wine drinkers board the pink wine bandwagon, the diverse GCF portfolio is looking very rosy indeed. The Costières de Nîmes AOP surrounds the historic city of Nîmes, which is known for its ancient Roman ruins. ROSÉ