Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/977771
may 2018 / the tasting panel / 87 W ith Cabernet Sauvignon on its way to becom- ing the nation's best-selling wine variety, Don Sebastiani & Sons is well positioned for continued success with its popular B Side Cabernet Sauvignon. To capitalize on that reputation, fourth-generation family vintner Donny Sebastiani and Director of Winemaking Greg Kitchens have extended the B Side portfolio with the release of a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in what amounts to a hit parade. Introduced in 2005, B Side Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from the eastern, or "B side," of Napa Valley. The label has per- formed admirably: Currently at 20,000 cases, it aims to reach a goal of 100,000 as the company expands distribution. As for the dual meaning of B Side's name, Sebastiani says that "like wine, music connects people." "Even if you've never seen a 45 record or a raveled-up cassette tape—which, by the way, was the inspiration for our label image—nostalgia cuts across demographics with an almost universal appeal," he continues. Now that retro turntables and vinyl records are popular once again, it's easy to see his point. Kitchens, who is marking his 20th anniversary with Sebastiani & Sons, began making B Side Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in 2016. He sources 70 percent of the Chardonnay grapes from the winery's Watmaugh Ranch Vineyard, which is planted to Hyde-Wente clones. According to Kitchens, these grapes hold on to their acidity as they spend some extra hang time reaching optimal ripeness. "As this vineyard matured, we realized it has the ability to produce a wine that absolutely overdelivers in quality," says Sebastiani. Unlike the sleeper B side of a record that made its way to the top of the charts, B Side Chardonnay has all the makings of a hit the moment consumers taste it. The 2016 shows lush golden apple, ripe citrus, and pineapple notes (the latter are markers for the clonal material) and plenty of balanced, bright acidity to lengthen the finish. Creamy secondary notes of vanilla and nutmeg can be attributed to the 20 percent of the blend that's aged in new Damy and Dargaud & Jaegle barrels. While both wines are labeled North Coast, the Petaluma Gap (California's newly-minted AVA) and Napa Carneros are Kitchen's go-tos for sourcing B Side Pinot Noir. Almost 70 percent of the fruit is sourced from Carneros and a prestigious vineyard in Petaluma Gap that's planted to the 115 Dijon clone. "We're always the first in to pick the Napa Carneros vineyard, which is known for having a tight picking window," said Kitchens. "This ensures there's plenty of natural acidity in the wine." Fruit from sites in Lake County and Anderson Valley make up the remainder of the blend. A judicious 30 percent of the wine is barreled in a combina- tion of new François Frères, Damy, and Dargaud & Jaegle barrels, which are considered to be among those best suited to Pinot Noir. The wine's rose, black raspberry, and pomegran- ate nose gives way to flavors of red and black cherries with secondary notes of camphor and earth that point to its all-star combination of terroir. Both Greg and Donny are committed to working with local growers and carefully managing each step of B Side's production. "White wines have always been a strong suit for us and we've excelled with high-scoring Pinot Noirs too," said Sebastiani. "With the addition of these two wines, B Side reflects what I like to call 'the soul of the North Coast.'" " LIKE WINE, MUSIC CONNECTS PEOPLE. EVEN IF YOU'VE NEVER SEEN A 45 RECORD OR A RAVELED-UP CASSETTE TAPE, NOSTALGIA CUTS ACROSS DEMOGRAPHICS WITH AN ALMOST UNIVERSAL APPEAL. "