The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2018

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may 2018  /  the tasting panel  /  75 Moobuzz 2016 Pinot Grigio, Paso Robles ($17) Rich and fragrant, chamomile and pear are perfumed with a hint of basil. The palate speaks to a lean acidity with just-squeezed white grapefruit and an unctuous mouthfeel, where sweet apricot meets tart lemongrass. This shows depth of character with mineral charm. 91 3 BADGE BEVERAGE CORP. Cusumano 2014 Noa, Sicily, Italy ($60) Unexpectedly sweet, dark, and spicy blackberry on the nose with rich, peppery fruit on the palate make this Sicilian red sizzle. A blend of 40% Nero d'Avola, 30% Merlot, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, it brings some New World sunshine with dense black fruit to its silky mouthfeel. Extroverted and high in alcohol at 15% ABV, the expressive nature of this big boy makes it a good pairing with grilled meat and red sauce dishes. 92 TERLATO WINES INTERNATIONAL Tercero 2017 Rosé, Santa Barbara County ($30) Made from 100% Mourvèdre, winemaker Larry Schaffer stomps on his grapes to make this stunner. He keeps the skins on for just an hour and cold ferments for five weeks in stainless steel before transferring to some oak and keeping some fruit in stainless. The mouthfeel is brilliant: instantly crisp and refreshing. The melon, pear, and gardenia notes are fragrant and linger through the finish. 92 Maddalena 2016 Zinfandel, Paso Robles ($22) This inky-black carmine powerhouse exudes plum, boysenberry, and graphite on the nose and palate. Dense "sweet" berries and dusty espresso tannins play well with fine acidity. It's not jammy, but structured and upright. 92 Merisi 2015 Red Wine Blend, Mendocino County ($28) The dry- farmed, organically-grown Petite Sirah (93%) from an 80-year-old vine shows its best side here, with a less intense alcohol level of 14% ABV. This wine ages for 20 months in 40% new oak barrels; a smidgen of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah were added in. The nose is bright and tart, and the red fruit is persuasive: Cranberry and rhubarb emanate freshness. 91 Exitus 2016 Red Wine, California ($26) Kentucky bourbon barrels are the "influenc- ers" of this Zinfandel-based wine, which is fermented in American stainless steel and aged for three months. A blend of Petite Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this 15.9% ABV release immedi- ately proves why the label refers to it as "Bold & Fearless—Wine Without Rules." Blackberry jam opens like an orchestra overture, playing all the right notes and offering a preview of the toasty oak, nutmeg, toffee-laden dark plum, and sweet tobacco flavors that carry you from Act One through the finale. 91 Simple Life 2015 Pinot Noir, California ($13) For a "simple life," this Pinot has a complex personality. With tilled soil and black cherry arousing the olfactory senses and a blooming of rhubarb and white pepper unfolding on the taste buds, the wine has a fine acidity that keeps it fresh and sippable. A smidgen of Petite Sirah adds pleasing violet notes and a touch of velvet tannins. 90 DON SEBASTIANI & SONS Hunt & Ryde Winery 2014 Trophy, Rockpile AVA, Sonoma County ($75) This Bordeaux blend from Sonoma County's prestigious Rockpile Ridge vineyard is edgy, bold, and structured. While the acidity is vibrant, the deeply-earthy tones and mid-palate density of soil, anise, cedar, and black fruit keeps it savory and juicy. Black tea tannins linger through the finish. The blend from this winery named for brothers Hunter and Ryder Fieri (the sons of Hunt & Ryde Founder/celeb- rity chef Guy Fieri) consists of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 17% Petite Verdot, 11% Cab Franc, and 8% Malbec. 92 Thorn 2015 Merlot, Napa Valley ($45) From the Prisoner Wine Company, this Merlot blended with Syrah, Petite Verdot, and Malbec is less of a thorny creature and more of a caressing satin robe. With aromas of tilled soil, licorice root, and café au lait, the palate becomes a sturdy, emboldened olive branch with savory cedar and chocolate- covered cherry. 92 J. Lohr Cuvée PAU Red Blend, Paso Robles ($50) Inspired by the Grand Cru wines of Bordeaux's Pauillac district, the aromas emerge gently from this blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Malbec, 11% Petit Verdot, and 7% Merlot. Violets, creamy espresso, and blackberry are expressively scented. The palate picks up firm tannins and an acidity that speaks to a statuesque structure, a dark intensity, and an animale quality inspired by dark chocolate, ear th, and black plums. 94

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