Issue link: https://digital.copcomm.com/i/961311
70 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2018 Master Sommelier Nunzio Alioto with Meridith May, Publisher/Editorial Director for The SOMM Journal, at Wine Speak Paso Robles. Spotlighting New World Cabernet Sauvignon At the second seminar of Wine Speak's opening day, Harrington, Neyers, and Ser- gio Carlei of Carlei Wines in Victoria, Australia shifted the conversation to New World Cabernet Sauvignon. And while there might have been some difference of opinion regarding to which degree green character is appropriate in the wine itself, all three winemakers agreed Cabernet Sauvignon is, economically speaking, the single most impor tant grape variety in the industry. "I'd be misleading you if I implied for a heartbeat that I haven't been to a large extent influenced by the French vendors I worked with in my other life at [importer/re - tailer] Kermit Lynch [Wine Merchant]," Ney- ers—the most experienced of the trio—said of his o wn style. He added that Napa still has "a wonderful history of Cabernet": "I've had the opportunity to taste some of those Heitz wines from the '60s, or the Inglenooks and BVs from the early '60s, late '50s, and a couple from the '40s. I don't think there's anything better than those wines." The discussion ventured northward as Harrington outlined the best spots for growing Cabernet Sauvignon in Wash - ington State, correlating the locales with the effects of the Missoula Floods. "To me, Horse Heaven Hills is kind of the best area for Cab in Washington," he said. "The Champoux Vineyard, for instance, is a fantastic area, and Red Mountain is the op - posite of Horse Heaven Hills. It's an area that was hit hard by the flood and it's also much warmer, similar to Napa. So if you want to make ripe, full-bodied Cabernet in Washington, you go to Red Mountain." Naturally, Carlei also had plenty to say by way of New World, organically- grown Cabernet Sauvignon from Victoria, particularly the Yarra Valley. "One thing I do find about Victoria Cabernet is that it's the most diversified state," he summarized. "Yarra Cabs tend to be leaner." The Versatile "Beauty" of Central Coast Syrah Three new panelists took the stage at Wine Speak for the third seminar, which nar- rowed what had previously been a global discussion to a focus on Central Coast Syrah. "Syrah will grow anywhere, but it certainly develops its own character on the Central Coast of California," noted Adam Tolmach, Owner/Winemaker at The Ojai Vineyard, as he shared his Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah from Santa Maria Valley. Tolmach began producing Syrah in 1983 and had gone through "many iterations" before he realized the grape needed more time to ripen in order to develop the savory flavor he sought. Like his colleagues, Tolmach was a believer in whole-cluster fermentation. "In Santa Maria, we experi - ence a mild climate with east-west valleys and prevailing winds that knock off the inland's higher temperatures, keeping the area cooler than one would suspect," Tolmach explained. "I find that people get defensive about this variety: where it should be grown and its varying styles ver - sus quality. But there are hundreds of styles for Syrah—that's the beauty of it." In Ballard Canyon, a sub-region in the Santa Ynez Valley roughly 40 miles south- east of Santa Maria, Matt Dees crafts wines for Jonata. "We arrived in 2004, planting the entire Noah's ark of grapes," Dees said. "It's incredible how many varieties shine here, but Syrah is the most perfect for Ballard Canyon." Fourteen vintages later, Dees finds this malleable grape still holds up. "Syrah is still our star, and there are no rules written about style here," he said. In reference to the 2010 La Sangre de Jonata Syrah he brought to taste, Dees added that "the 2010 did well even under a challenging vintage where other varieties suffered." The exotic wine showed a velvety texture with deep, black fruit, violets tempered with soy sauce, and subtle white pepper. { industry events } The Saxum 2008 Bone Rock Syrah, Jonata 2010 La Sangre de Jonata Syrah, and The Ojai Vineyard 2014 Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah were each tasted during the Central Coast Syrah seminar. Doug Filipponi, Owner of Ancient Peaks Winery, and Adam Tolmach, Owner/ Winemaker at The Ojai Vineyard, at a BYOB (Bring Your Own Bottle) dinner.