The SOMM Journal

April / May 2018

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  67 est treasures, and its intense sweetness is balanced by wonderful volcanic minerality and acidity that will blow your mind." The concept behind Aszú as an "incom - parable way to end a meal" is that a little taste of luxury can go a long way, Royal Tokaji representative Charlie Mount told The SOMM Journal: "Aszú is a small taste of decadence. Restaurant diners today are squeezed for time and cannot wait for the tiramisu, so instead, they can order a little 'liquid pudding'—a glass of Aszú! Somme - liers are beginning to comprehend this and get on board." Several of those sommeliers were on hand at the event, with CW Kelly III, Sommelier at the Watergate Hotel, calling Aszú a "great fit" for his wine program. "We find that younger consumers tend to order sweet-style wines and are more interested in the story behind them, and Tokaj has such a rich and storied history," he explained. To conclude the evening, Dr. Horváth expressed his gratitude for the "the relent - less efforts of our partners The SOMM Journal and Vinum Tokaj International." "This media campaign has resulted in increased recognition for Hungarian wines in the U.S. market, especially among young somme - liers and new generations of consumers," he continued. "Tokaji Aszú is at the top of the pyramid of Hungarian wines and rests on centuries of tradition and history. As the crown jewel of the Hungarian wine in - dustry, Aszú showcases the artistic essence of winemaking and offers consumers an inspiring experience. Following the suc - cessful 'Year of Furmint' initiative, we look forward to 2018 as the 'Year of Aszú.'" The Process Behind the Pour Stemming from a painstaking process dating back to 1641, Tokaji Essencia is traditionally produced from Furmint, Hárs- levelu " , and Yellow Muscat grapes desiccated by Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot. That process can be cumbersome, to say the least: The dried and mold-covered grapes are hand-harvested one berry at a time, and approximately 20 kilograms of dried berries are required to produce one 375-milliliter bottle. Once they're manually selected, the berries are placed into vats without pressing to await fermentation. The pressure from the weight of the mound causes a small amount of free-run nectar to seep out; these drops are collected and set aside to ferment in 50-liter glass vessels, and the resulting must is so sweet that fermentation can take as long as eight years to complete. Alcohol levels linger as low as 1.65 percent and rarely exceed 3 percent, while Essencia's residual sug - ar content typically ranges between 450–700 grams per liter (in some vintages, it can reach an astonishing 900 grams). In exceptional conditions, Essencia can age for up to two centuries, but it can show its full potential even in its early years. Eniko" Magyar and Attila Balla have helped launch the "Year of Aszú" initiative, which aims to raise the profile of Hungarian wines—especially Tokaj sweet wines—and enhance their overall market presence in North America. Ambassador László Szabó described Essencia, served in a crystal spoon, as "a rare and exquisite treat."

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