The SOMM Journal

April / May 2018

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44 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2018 received a request from his father that would alter the course of his life: Inspired by farmers markets, raw ma - terials, and a deep love for southern France, the elder Bieler had purchased a new home with a vineyard attached in Provence and wanted his son's help as he delved into winemaking. "He said 'Listen, I need one year of your life. You've been able to do what - ever you want up 'til now and you can do anything you want after this, but we have this property, we're making beautiful wines, and someone needs to hustle.'" Bieler recalls. "How do you say no to your dad?" So, after conclud - ing that a future in skiing might not pan out after all, Bieler swapped snow- covered slopes for rolling vineyards. In 1998, Bieler found himself driving a '65 pink Cadillac DeVille convertible while dressed in a matching vintage tuxedo to sell his father's Château Routas wine and build the brand. After a few years of fighting the sweet stigma associated with "pink" wine— and virtually living out of the Cadil - lac—they made a breakthrough. In 2005, after 13 years, Château Routas was sold and Bieler started Bieler Père et Fils. The vineyards from which Bieler Père et Fils sources its fruit sit on the hills of Var and Aix-en-Provence, a decision Bieler explains reflected long-term planning at the time. The budding businessman realized that to consumers, Provence—be it the region's staggering hills or low-lying "Côtes"—were all viewed as one despite the altitude variation and dif - ferences in seasonal ripening between its many appellations. Bieler notes that the central valley of Provence sits at the lowest altitude and has the warmest climate: "Fruit would regularly ripen in the valley; such was not the case in the hills, but the hills were critical," he says. The climate was warming, the Côtes [de Provence] were getting warmer, and we were worried about acidity." Crispy farm chicken and spaghetti cacio e pepe paired with Bieler Père et Fils La Jassine Côtes du Rhône Villages. Out to Lunch with Charles Bieler Like a true wine entrepreneur, Bieler arrived to lunch at Charlie Bird in SoHo armed with four bottles from two of his different projects. Bieler currently takes part in Bieler Père et Fils; Rebel Wine Co., a partnership with Trinchero Family Estates; Charles & Charles, a partnership with Washington winemaker Charles Smith; and The Gotham Project, the industry's leading brand for wine on tap. Bieler opened his Père et Fils rosé—a Grenache-based blend with Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Rolle (Vermen - tino)—to accompany the first course of bay scallops. Bieler said his ideal rosé has the flavor profile of a world-class Sauvi- gnon Blanc with red fruit: savory, citrusy, and full of acidity. The wine was just as he described it—full-flavored and bright with grassy peach, lime, and cherry notes. In 2017, 90,000 cases of the Père et Fils were produced, and the winery experi - ments with 30 different fermentations with more than a dozen types of yeast to achieve this flavor profile. "The tempta - tion to use bigger tanks is there, but for me, it's about trying to build these nu- ances and layers," he explained, going on to describe his dream of making a rosé that's "so tightly sewn together that it's almost tricky to write a tasting note, like turning a quar tet into a symphony." Bieler

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