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38 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2018 THE SOMM Joury Flying Goat Cellars 2013 Rio Vista Vineyard Dijon Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($46) Rio Vista Vineyard comprises three different blocks and three dif - ferent clones, but it's the Dijon blend that makes up this wine. Soils of rocks and chert are found on the steep, eastern side of the vineyard. The wine, which goes through 18 months of barrel aging, has depth, power, and inten - sity in both mouthfeel and flavor. Winemaker Norm Yost must put some secret ingredients in this wine, because this was one of the more unique profiles we tasted. Maple and oak seemed to meld, with black fruit weaving in and out of mushroom, black pepper, and sweet tobacco. Masút Vineyard and Winery 2016 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eagle Peak, Mendocino County ($40) The word masút is a Native American word meaning "dark, rich earth." Founders (and brothers) Ben and Jake Fetzer launched the winery with intent to pro - duce estate fruit in Mendoci- no County; together, they established the mountainous Eagle Peak appellation in Mendocino, where they are the sole winery. The wine is earthy and creamy, with flavors of cinnamon cherry pie and a finish of vanilla spice. PHOTO: COURTESY OF PONZI VINEYARDS Talbott Vineyards 2015 Sleepy Hol- low Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($50) One of the most well-known vineyards in California, this expansive bench site is 13 miles from Monterey Bay. Well-drained and sparse soils bring out the concentrated flavors in the wine, with earth and spice leading the way to a palate of cinnamon, spiced cedar, and cherry juiciness. Haunting notes of forest floor and a garden of dried roses are present, and a billowy mouthfeel and lean acidity makes it ethereal. Ponzi Vineyards 2015 Classico Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley ($43) While this is around $10 less than most well-made Pinot Noir, the Classico shows well above its station. Both red fruits and blue fruits jump out the gate, kicking up dried sage and rosemary on the stretch. There's also slight hints of cherry cola and carob happening midway that are offset by juicy acidity at the end. Aged in 35% new French oak for 11 months, then bottled unfined/unfil - tered and rested five months in bottle. Talbott Vineyards Winemaker David Coventry. Winemaker Luisa Ponzi. St. Francis Winery & Vineyards 2015 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($45) Just 4% Syrah from the certi- fied sustainable Wild Oak Estate Vineyard (which is the location of the winery itself in So- noma County) adds a zest to the wine. Each vineyard lot of Pinot Noir undergoes a sow, 14-day ferment, with extended maceration up to 30 additional days. This is fleshy, fruity, and savory with notes of black pepper and cranberry. Tea tannins and bright acidity are part of the balanced mouthfeel. St. Francis Winery & Vineyards Winemaker Katie Madigan. PHOTO COURTESY OF ST. FRANCIS WINERY & VINEYARDS PHOTO: COURTESY OF MASUT VINEYARD