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{ SOMMjournal.com } 85 niques to improve overall quality. For example, the aptly-named Pomerol Seduc- tion functions as a group of estates, among them La Conseillante, that organizes group tastings (the wines range in price per bot - tle from $40–$240). "We don't compete," Cazaux said. "We work together." As most in the industry know, prices for top brands are reaching ever-higher thresholds. Pomerol, however, produces economically-priced wines that have im - proved in quality over the past decade. Two other tastings I attended in Decem- ber 2017—one at the Libourne office of pioneering Pomerol producer Jean-Pierre Moueix and the other with the Grand Cercle, a group of some 160 Bordeaux wineries that includes several Pomerols— prove that one can find quality Pomerol for less than $50 per bottle. Take Château Mazeyres, a 25-hectare, Certified Organic property that convert - ed to Biodynamic viticulture in 2015. Here, gravelly, sandy, and clay soils yield excel- lent wine for a fair price. While it doesn't exhibit the same density of higher-caliber Pomerol, the just-bottled 2015 vintage exhibits smooth succulence and fine depth. Even better is Château Bourgneuf: It's sumptuous and flavorful with added nuance and elegance. The wines of these and other value- conscious estates—including Châteaux La Pointe, Rouget, and La Grave—cost less than $50 per bottle yet share the sensuality and finesse that denote Pomerol generally. Long considered a subappellation of Saint-Émilion, Pomerol was granted independent status in the early 20th century. Its gently rolling plateau, located19 miles (roughly 31 kilometers) northeast of Bordeaux and two miles from the city of Libourne, slopes towards the Isle river valley and its confluence with the Dordo - gne. With just under 800 hectares of vines, its grapes are grown on soils that can be divided into three broad categories, Cazaux explains: the unique blue clay over iron known as the crasse de fer (found mainly at Pétrus but also at La Conseil - lante, among others) that yields wines of elegance and power ; gravelly soils that yield very robust and powerful wines; and lighter, sandier soils responsible for more supple wines with lighter tannins. It's to these soils that much of the less-expensive Pomerol wines can trace their origins. "The less-expensive brands work especially well for restaurants," explained Stéphan Maure of the Vino Strada bistro in Strasbourg, France. "They bear the name of Pomerol and its refinement but do not cost an arm and a leg." A Fine Showing from Fronsac In recent years, the lesser-known Right Bank appellation of Fronsac has been en- joying justified critical acclaim for Merlot- driven wines made from excellent clay and limestone terroirs. Of similar size at 840 hectares, Fronsac is but a ten-minute drive from Pomerol, yet its dramatically hillier terrain is much different. Cooler soils of more limestone than clay make some observers wonder whether warmer vintages due to climate change are ben - efitting this appellation. Ironically, Fronsac once was more fa- mous than Saint-Émilion. In his experience with Right Bank wine-producing regions, Professor Henri Enjalbert stressed that until the beginning of the 19th century, Fronsac wines sold for higher prices than those of the "best terroirs" of Saint- Émilion. Although forgotten for various reasons during the mid-19th and much of the 20th centuries, Fronsac today features dynamic, quality-minded producers who craft excellent wines often costing less than $30 a bottle. While assessing some 2015s from bottle in December at the Grand Cercle tasting, I found that many Fronsac wines confirmed fine showings from barrel nearly two years ago. Take Château Dalem: Its wines are rich and opulent, as its south-facing vineyards benefit from fine solar exposure. The 2015 vintage is particularly smooth, with juiciness and gravitas (one would not easily guess its 15% alcohol content). Even better is Château Haut-Carles; at 14% ABV, it conveys fresher floral aromatics with a hint of iron-like earthiness that lends density. This estate—with primarily south- and east-facing vineyards spanning some 20 hectares—has been consistent over at least the past five years, and the 2015 combines focus, freshness, and bright fruit. The largest estate in Fronsac, Château de La Rivière, counts among the most beautiful in Bordeaux. Its vineyards enjoy considerable solar exposure on impressive slopes with easy drainage. The 2015 fea - tures spicy plum and tobacco-like aspects on a smooth and contoured palate that easily beckons further drinking—a dream selection for premium by-the-glass pours. Sommeliers should seek out these and other Fronsac producers, which have shown remarkable qualitative consis - tency in recent years. Indeed, the quality may be equal to that of the early 19th century, though prices have not reached the "glory days" of that bygone era . . . at least, not yet. The vineyards of La Conseillante beyond the winery's gate. The 2015 vintage from the largest estate in Fronsac, Château de La Rivière.